Monday, August 2, 2010

Tails

Tails and Teeth

You see a dog playing with a toy. As you approach, the dog starts wagging her tail.  You of course assume that Lady wants to play so you try to grab the toy to throw for her and Lady snaps at you.
Did Lady aggress for no apparent reason or were the warning signs there?
 
">Lupe Taking a break at Tobin Park
 
Contrary to popular belief, a wagging tail doesn't always mean "I'm friendly" or "let's play" or "I'm happy to see you".  Some dogs will display what I call an "alpha wag".  Actually I don't remember if I call it that or if I read it somewhere and am now plagiarizing the term :)
 
Akitas can be notorious for this.  My Akita Mix, Cisco (RIP, baby). Had 3 different types of wags|
- Very loose and wide - I'm happy to see you or let's play
- Quicker but still a little loose- I don't want to have to hurt you, but if you don't fall down and expose your belly right now, there is going to be trouble
- Very stiff, short bursts - come any closer and you'll draw back a knub.
 
Some dogs show their "alpha wag" by putting their tales straight up in the air and wagging stiffly. Actually, it's not really a wag.. Maybe a better term is a quiver.
 
So how do you know if a dog is displaying an "alpha wag" or a happy wag? Look at the rest of the dog's body.  Is Junior stiff? Are his hackles up? Are his eyes soft or hard?  Are his lips loose or are they forming a "C" or an "O"?  Is his mouth open?
 
Is an alpha wag always bad?  No, but just be aware. Most dogs will pick up an alpha wag right away.  You might see two dogs meet. One stands tall, displays the alpha wag. The beta dog might hang her head, stick out her tongue or lick the alpha dog.  The very submissive dog might fall on his back and expose his belly and neck. So now these dogs have established the pecking order.
 
But be careful. If two dogs approach each other - each standing tall and stiff; each with tails high and stiff - this could mean trouble - two alpha dogs; neither one wanting to give up authority.
 
Teeth
A dog showing his teeth doesn't necessarily mean he is being aggressive. Some dogs are just grinners.  Some show their teeth when they are being submissive (submissive grin). How do you know the difference?  Once again, check their other body signals.   See below for some info from the Humane Society of the United States:
 
Bottom line - always be extremely cautious around any dog whom you don't know.  If the pet parent is around, always ask for permission before touching.
 
 
A great book that addresses how dogs communicate is How to Speak Dog by Dr Stanley Coren. Available at the San Antonio and Randolph AFB Library.

  

 

 

 

 

Canine Behavior, Aggression, Fear, etc.. 

Taken from Humane Society of the United States Training Program
 
 
 
   
 
 
   
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 

Friday, July 30, 2010

Pasting... Cancel

Hi There
My name is Lupe
And what I'd like to do today
is talk to you about a place
where my friends and I love to play

San Antonio Big Dawgs is the name of the group
But you don't have be big to stay in loop

Just check out my little friend Mojo
He's a JRT so he's always ready to go

There's me and my brothers
35 pounds is about all we weigh
We like to go to training
Where we learn come, sit and stay

You see, big is a state of mind, an attitude
So little dogs can join us to

The Human Top dog is Kevin
He's been in charge since 2009, August 11th
Next to T, his wife
His best dog Indee is the love of his life

The Co-Organizer is Jimmy. He's really smart
He started a training program right from the start
The training is so much fun, it makes Indee bark

In addition to training, we go on lots of walks
This gives our humans a chance to socialize and talk

Okay, Training, walking, what else do we do?
Oh! We float in rivers in nice big tubes
This fun activity keeps everyone cool
During the hot summer months
It's so much fun, we like it a whole bunch

Sometimes we even go to restaurants and have lunch

So I've talked about all the fun things
But we have an important message we'd like bring
Dogs are part of the family and should be treated that way
That human-canine bond is so important today.

Tell all your friends about Big Dawgs, Kevin and Jimmy
Let's make San Antonio a pet friendly City!

And what I'd like to do today
is talk to you about a place
where my friends and I love to play

San Antonio Big Dawgs is the name of the group
But you don't have be big to stay in loop

Just check out my little friend Mojo
He's a JRT so he's always ready to go

There's me and my brothers
35 pounds is about all we weigh
We like to go to training
Where we learn come, sit and stay

You see, big is a state of mind, an attitude
So little dogs can join us to

The Human Top dog is Kevin
He's been in charge since 2009, August 11th
Next to T, his wife
His best dog Indee is the love of his life

The Co-Organizer is Jimmy. He's really smart
He started a training program right from the start
The training is so much fun, it makes Indee bark

In addition to training, we go on lots of walks
This gives our humans a chance to socialize and talk

Okay, Training, walking, what else do we do?
Oh! We float in rivers in nice big tubes
This fun activity keeps everyone cool
During the hot summer months
It's so much fun, we like it a whole bunch

Sometimes we even go to restaurants and have lunch

So I've talked about all the fun things
But we have an important message we'd like bring
Dogs are part of the family and should be treated that way
That human-canine bond is so important today.

Tell all your friends about Big Dawgs, Kevin and Jimmy
Let's make San Antonio a pet friendly City!

Pasting... Cancel

 

They try to tell me she's just a dog

But she's not; can't you see

She's just as special as you and me

 

They even tried to say she's feral and could never be tamed

I didn't care; I loved her just the same

 

Humans and dogs are alike in so many ways

If you made a list, it would go on for days.

 

We get hungry, we get cold

We get arthritis when we get old

 

Dogs get a lot of the same ailments that humans do

Like allergies, coughs, even the flu

 

They tell me not to call her "fur baby"

That's she's just property

But she'll always be my baby to me

 

I know when she is happy and sad

I know about the things that make her glad

 

She didn't ask to live with me, I chose to take her in

Now I owe her; she's my best friend

She lives inside with me and sits on my chairs

Some say that lowers my status as master

But I don't care

 

Dogs and humans both have hearts

And either heart can break

To be away from their human companion is an awful fate

 

So bring your dog in the house

Onto your bed, your sofa, into your heart

Today's the day to make a new start

 

Pets are social animals

Another human trait they share

Wherever you are, they want to be there

 

So legally, she's my property

But spiritually, she's my whole world

She's my fur baby;  my special girl


Thursday, July 29, 2010

Safe Outdoor Cats

Safe Outdoor Cats
I'm sorry to hear that you might have give up your babies.  I'm so glad that you are trying to keep them safe.  Please consider a safe, cat-friendly outdoor/indoor enclosure before giving them up. 
 
You can put up a chainlink fence outside around a window in the house (put a top on the chainlink fence). Inside the house, put an enclosure around that window that extends into part of the room. That indoor enclosure should also have a top. The put a little cat door around the window.   So that way, the cats can come in and out, but not be mixed with the other pets. And the cat door will keep some of the heat/cold from getting into the house. 
Or if you have or can create a  spare room, then close off that room. That way the cats can come in and out of that room.
The indoor and outdoor enclosures and/or room can be set up to be cat friendly - scratching posts, carpeted "cat trees" to climb, some pet friendly grasses, etc.. Maybe some nice pando music * piped in.
I've even seen some really fancy indoor enclosures with little fountains and streams.  Will see if I can find some examples on youtube when I get home.  Can't really get on there at work.
But in the mean time, here are some examples you can ponder.
 
Here is a house in San AntonioHouse with outdoor enclosure. This is probably made for birds and you won't need anything this fancy, but hopefully it will give you an idea of what I'm talking about.
 
Other ideas here:  Safe Outdoor Cats
 
Some people might think this is crazy, but think about it:  Get your cats used to a harness. Take them for  walks. Yes, people will look at you like you are crazy, but why not?  Most puppies hate a leash at first but once they learn how much fun it is to go for walks, they won't leave you alone.  Yes, your cats are already grown, but I've taught many adults dogs who have never been on leash before (including my own) to learn to like the leash.
 
Something else to consider if the harness idea just doesn't work for you - Musical rooms.  Lots of folks do it.  Put the other pets in a room or a couple of rooms or crates (I don't know the size of your house), then bring in the outdoor cats and spend time with them.  Then put the outdoor cats back out, bring out the other pets and spend time with them.  Do this about 3 times a day.  Might require you to get up a little earlier because you'll want to do this before work, but it might be worth it.  See what other activities you can cut back on to make this work.
 
Also talk to a behaviorist to see how you can integrate the two cats into the household.  It appears that your dogs are already cat friendly.  Maybe if you take baby steps - starting with the indoor enclosure, maybe the cats can eventually get along with the rest of the family.  Or at least perhaps they can all be out together when you are home to supervise, then separated when you are not at home.
 
Outdoor enclosures, behaviorists, etc.. - all very expensive, and times are tight for everyone.  But look at things you can sell or cut back on.  Try to find used chain link fencing, see what you can do yourself.  Depending on how determined the kitties are, you might be able to get by with 50 dollars worth of goat fencing and 30 dollars worth of posts to put something together yourself.  You can ask the customer service folks at Lowes or Home Depot to help with a plan
Or Google "How to Build a Cat Enclosure to see what you can come up with
Here is one example: How to Build a Cat Enclosure
 
* Pando Music - Dr Dan Kirby mentioned this product on his radio show.  He endorsed it.

Friday, July 23, 2010

Walking a Reactive Dog



C:\Users\Walker\AppData\Local\Microsoft\Windows\Temporary Internet Files\Content.IE5\ZOV4YN8G\MP900448587[1].jpgWALKING A REACTIVE DOG

Note: I am a not a certified trainer or behaviorist. These are only my personal thoughts as a dog lover

This information is based on my personal experience, my personal philosophies, and my partial reading of an excellent book titled Click to Calm: Healing the Aggressive Dog by Karen Pryor.  Take from the below info whichever parts work for you

 

Walking a large, strong reactive dog can be a daunting task. It might be tempting to stop walking the dog; but this will not help the problem and will probably make it worse because now you have a large, bored, destructive dog on your hands.

 

 

 

In this Article

 

 

 

 

SAFETY

 

  • Dogs with known aggression issues must never be walked on a regular buckle or snap collar. The potential is just too great that the dog might slip the collar. 
  • Always use a properly fitted martingale collar or a slip lead (martingale is safer; a slip lead can choke). A Gentle Leader would also be acceptable.  Less secure than a martingale but safer than a buckle collar is a harness. Some dogs can slip harnesses. Still have a buckle collar for ID.  So the dog should be wearing at least two devices - a buckle collar for ID and a martingale or slip leash, or harness or gentle leader for walking
  • Absolutely no flexi leads during neighborhood walks.  Walkers must use a sturdy 4 to 6 foot lead and keep a good grip on the lead at all times.
  • Walkers must wear sturdy shoes - no flip-flops.
  • If the dog is extra aggressive and extra strong, consider a basket muzzle - which allows for airflow, panting, even drinking and taking treats. Still exercise caution. A dog can remove a muzzle if determined enough.  The drawback to wearing a muzzle during neighborhood walks is of course if you are confronted by an aggressive stray, your dog won't be able to defend herself.
  • NO dog parks!  At least not until the issues are resolved.  Not only is this not fair to others at the park (they become participants in your training issues whether they chose to or not) but it is also a way to set your dog up for failure - too much at once.

Avoidance

 

This is not the answer and it won't fix the problem, but this is better than not walking the dog, and it is a place to start while you are working on your dog's issues:

Avoid Other Dogs as much as possible.  Walk late at night and early in the morning. Walk in the rain.  Keep an eye out for other dogs and go in another direction when you see one coming
 

Training

No negative reinforcement.  No punishing

Never yell, poke or hit the dog when he/she is reacting. (not with hands, not with newspaper, not with the leash)  This will just make matters worse. The dog will associate bad things happening to her when she sees another dog, and it will just make her dislike other dogs even more.  Please note that it doesn't matter whether or not popping your dog with a leash hurts or not. The act is still negative.

Only positive reinforcement


Reward the dog when he is being good.  If you have someone willing to help you with this: (Use a basket muzzle if safety is a big issue)

Have a friend stand still with a calm, not reactive dog in a sit.  Stand back as far away as your reactive dog needs to be before barking.  When your reactive dog isn't barking or lunging or growling, click, treat.  If your dog acts up, Do nothing; just stand there until she calms down. 

Note that this is not a quick fix. This could take weeks.  Once your dog is comfortable at, say 300 feet.  Then try moving in an arc just a little closer. Try to stop before your dog reacts. Tell your dog to sit, praise, click, treat. 

 

Keep working on this day after day, week after week, until you can get closer and closer.

 

If you don't have a friend with a calm dog, you will just have to practice this technique during your neighborhood walks

 

When you see a dog approaching, get your dog's attention before he starts reacting.  Talk weird baby talk, make weird sounds.  I personally like to blow lightly on a party horn. Put your dog in a sit, have your dog "watch me,", etc.. When your dog is not reacting, click, treat, praise highly. Continue getting his attention until the offending dog is gone.

Check your own behaviors

 

Do you get overly anxious when another dog approaches? Do you hold the leash tighter? If so, your dog will notice this and react accordingly.  I've found that using the basket muzzle allows me to relax a little more. Not hold my dog too tightly. 

Free Training Available

SA Big Dawgs has weekly free training sessions.  You can start out far from the rest of the group and work your way up. You can also talk with the trainer about your issues

Free Dog Walking and Socialization Available

SA Big Dawgs has free dog walking and socialization meetups  all over town, most days of the weeks.  You can start out far from the group and work your way up.

 
Also see,

La Trenda's Progression of Reactions to a loose dog

 
And see Item 3 at Animal Education Links for more animal info

Thursday, July 22, 2010

Taming Vet Bills

Taming Vet Bills
Times are tough. Many people are unemployed or under-employed.  With so many other things tugging at our pocketbooks we need to be sure that our fuzzy kids aren't left out when it comes to proper vet care.
 
Contents
 
 
 
 

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. 

It's an old cliche' but so very relevant in so many situations.  If you don't get a 30 dollar oil change every few months, you can wind up spending thousands to repair your engine.  If you don't get the proper preventative care for your pets, you could wind up spending thousands at the veterinary hospital.
  • Get your pets vaccinated.  Parvovirus and distemper are awful diseases that affect many unvaccinated pets - especially puppies. Pet parents who have experienced these diseases can tell you that their dogs suffer greatly. Sometimes a pet parent can spend thousands of dollars at the vet and the dog still dies.  Those that survive can have life long complications - especially from distemper. 
    • Vaccinations against Rabies, Parvovirus, and Distemper are only needed every one to three years (depending on the vaccine).  Luckily, these are not surprise or emergency vaccinations - pet parents can save money specifically for these things.  Rabies vaccinations are required by law. Rabies disease is transmittable and potentially fatal to humans and most mammals (dogs, cats, raccoons, etc). 
    • Puppies and kittens must get a series of shots, starting at 6 weeks of age and every 3-4 weeks thereafter until their last vaccine is given after they are 16 weeks old. Talk to your vet about the schedule and please please don't let your pet on the ground or on the floor in public until he/she is done with shots.  Please don't let him/her in the dog park, Petco, Petsmart, etc.. They can pick up diseases easily before they are done with shots.
    • note: For the more experienced pet parents -  I know there are some schools of thought about how often or even if vaccs are needed.  I'm not smart enough to debate anyone on this subject. But I will say with some confidence though that if you choose not to vaccinate your pet for health reasons then titer testing is a must to make sure your pet still has antibodies. But this is a discussion for another time. This post is about saving money. Titer testing costs several hundred dollars. Vaccinations are quite cheap in comparison.
 
  • Keep your pets on heartworm preventative each and every month.  Heartworm is an awful preventable disease that is often fatal if not treated.  Worms grow in the heart and cause all kinds of complications- heart disease and enlargement and- eventually death.  Many dogs feel like they are choking as the worms fill up the heart.  Treatment for heartworms consists of basically poisoning the worms. Then the worms have to be absorbed in the dogs circulation. Some dogs don't even survive the treatment.  Also the treatment is very expensive. Expect to spend 600 dollars or more for treatment depending on the size of your dog.  Heartworm preventative will cost less then ten dollars a month depending on the size of your dog.  That's less than 30 cents day. Once again - not a surprise expense - something a pet parent can prepare for. 
    • Dogs that are mostly inside still need preventative.  All it takes is one mosquito bite for your dog to become infected.
    • Also note: If you have never used heartworm preventative, get with your vet first.  An inexpensive test needs to be done to insure your dog doesn't already have heartworms; and certain breeds (collie type breeds) might have medical issues with certain brands of heartworm preventatives.
    • Also be aware that heartworm medication is a prescription and generally requires one in order to obtain it.

 

  • Keep Fifi's or Fido's weight in check.  Obese dogs have the same complications as obese humans - heart and joint disease, diabetes, hypothyroidism, etc.. Keeping weight at an acceptable level will save on vet bills.  Feed your dog a nutritious dog food (talk to your vet) and cut  back on table scraps and dog biscuits.  Some human foods are okay for an occasional low calorie treat - carrots, apples, etc.. Once again talk to your vet and see a previous post about foods that are bad for our pets: http://www.meetup.com/sabigdawgs/messages/boards/thread/8403478
    • Note: I'm not smart enough to talk about a raw diet.  If you decide to do this, do your research and talk to your vet

 

  • Keep your fence in good repair. Replacing a board might cost 5 dollars.  Much cheaper than the 600 to 1,500 dollar vet bill you will incur if your dog gets hit by a car.  Fence only 4 feet high and your dog keeps jumping it?  If you can't afford a 6 foot fence right now, keep Fido inside until you can save up the money.  Sometimes no matter what you do, your dog will get out of the yard. Some of them are just that good. These dogs should only be allowed outside when they can be attended to.  These dogs are not only in danger of causing you a huge vet expense but they could loose their lives, get lost or stolen.  More info on escape artists can be found here: http://docs.google.com/View?id=ddtbr7bw_783f77z5sc3. Additionally, even if your dog is not an escape artist, never take him/her out in public without a secure collar  or harness and leash.  Not only is this the law in most areas, but more importantly, any dog can get distracted and take off.  A dog running after a rabbit might not notice the speeding car coming in her/his direction.  
  • Please don't let your dog ride in the back of a pickup truck.  All it takes is that one time for your dog to jump out while you are speeding down the highway - huge vet bill or worse- dead.  Not only could your dog get injured or killed but you might even cause a traffic accident.  Some folks might say that their dog has never jumped from the back of a moving truck, but my response is another old cliche' - "there is a first time for everything".  One example (of many I hear): A lady who was needing help finding a lost dog was telling me that her dog always walked down the street to go visit the neighbor's dog and "he always comes back".  A short time later, I received another call from a good Samaritan.  The dog was found dead.  So the baby always came back - except for that one time that he was run over by a car.  You dog might always ride well in the back of a truck - except for that one time he sees a deer or smells a female dog in heat.  Restraining our dog in the back of the truck is a bad idea as well. The dog can try to jump out and hang him/herself.  Pet parents should also be extra careful about letting their dogs stick their whole head or parts of their body out of the car window.  They could jump out or get hit by flying debris.
 
 

Establish a relationship with your vet

Find a vet you like and go to him/her for all of your vet care needs.  If your dog gets injured or sick, your regular vet might be more willing to work with you on a payment plan.  Shot clinics may be a great way to save money (however, often they are no less expensive then the regular vet and many times do not provide a complete physical examination); but a yearly check up at your vet is a must  - not only for preventative care but to also establish that relationship.  Also, if a vet sees your dog regularly, he or she will be more attuned to your dog's needs and will be able to see health changes more easily. I get my dogs nails trimmed and anal glands expressed at the vet about once a month. Sometimes I go to my vet for nothing.  We just sit in the lobby and I give him treats.  This helps me for two reasons - a. 3 of my dogs are very shy and nervous.  I want them to get accustomed to the vet's office and I want them to know that going to vet office doesn't always mean something bad.  b. And of course, it establishes that relationship. The staff there knows me and my dogs. 
 

Get small health issues taken care of right away 

So you see a tiny little bald spot on your dog. You don't want to spend 30 or 50 dollars or so for a vet visit for something so small?  Well think about what it will cost when the spot gets bigger and it's harder to treat. What if that little spot turns out to be sarcoptic mange - which is transmittable to humans.  Take care of small problems before they become big problems.  Not only is it much cheaper in the long run, but your baby will avoid needless suffering.
 

Get your pet spayed or neutered

This is a good idea for so many reasons - pet over population, health issues, etc.. A neutered dog might be less likely to want to roam. A 200 dollar spay surgery is much cheaper than taking care of 15 puppies - or worse. Some Mamas have complications during birth just like humans and require c-sections or worse- can die. The vet bill can be very expensive and your dog will needlessly suffer.  There are many low cost or even free spay neuter clinics in San Antonio. Two Hundred Dollars is probably about what you'd pay at a regular vet. Lost cost (and sometimes free) spay/neuter resources are also available: http://fuzzychildren.blogspot.com/2010/03/low-cost-spay-neuter-vaccinations-in.html
 

Get Pet Insurance

Shop around and read the fine print.  Some deals are better than others. Some are not deals at all. Ask your vet for advice.  It will be easier to come up with 10 to 20 dollars per month for insurance rather than come up with 600 dollars for an MRI or X ray if something goes wrong.  We have medical insurance for humans - why not for our companions?  keep in mind all insurance polices require upfront payment and then will reimburse you. 
 

Establish a savings account for your dog

Even if you only have a couple of dollars to spare, put it away for Rex.  If you don't have 2 or 3 dollars a month to put away, then start looking at what you can do without to come up with some spare change (but more is better).  Eat out less, give up foods that aren't good for you.  If you smoke or drink alcohol - give that up.  Give up that cable or satellite TV.  Instead of going out to the movies or to a night club, socialize with people and other dogs at free dog walking meetups.
So times are tight and you've done all that already and there is still no money?  Look a little harder.  Nutritionally, a meal of beans and brown rice has about as much protein as streak.  And it provides plenty of vitamins, minerals and fiber. You can get about 10 or more servings out of a 50 cent pack of dried lentils.  Gave up meat, candy and pastries already?  Can you eat a little less food?  Many of us eat way more than we need.  Can you cut back on a snack a day for the health of your dog?
 

Establish credit

Just so you will have it for emergencies.  Don't use it to buy new clothes or a game station. If you haven't established credit yet or if you are trying to repair bad credit; then you might have to start with cash secured cards or department store cards. Buy some necessities with them (groceries, school clothes, etc..) to get your credit going - but be sure to pay them off right away. Don't even wait until the end of the month. Have the money to pay the bill before you use the card. For vet expenses, also look into Care Credit: http://www.carecredit.com/vetmed/
 

When that big expense happens

So, you've kept your dog safe in your yard or on leash; you've kept her or his weight to an acceptable level and fed her/him quality dog food.  But a big vet bill still comes in and you are low on cash - what do you do?  Pay day loans are always a bad idea. But if you don't have credit established, then you might have to consider that.  Pawn something  - Jewelery, furniture, electronics, etc.. Anything that is worth less than your dog's life or health.  Which is everything.  If you spend time calling around to see which vet is the cheapest, the dog could be getting worse and the expense could be going up - not to mention your dog might be suffering.
 
So you've sold everything, you are hungry from lack of eating and you still can't afford the vet bill?
Charitable organizations are over taxed but give them a try -
 
 
Our dogs do so much for us and ask for so little in return.  We should try our best to make sure they are safe, happy, and well.  For more info on vet expenses,  and for information on free or low cost spay/neuter vaccinations, please see:
 
For information on cutting back on expenses - The Tightwad Gazette is an excellent resource - don't buy it. Get it at the Library:
 
Other useful info on saving money
 
 
La Trenda
210-649-0391
 
<[IMG]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv229/latrenda12/LupeMatt-MattJulieShareaMoment01-24.jpg[/IMG]
 

Photobucket

Pets and New Babies

 
Please note: I am not a professional:
The main thing for any parent - even ones who have well adjusted dogs - is supervision, supervision and more supervision.  Children and babies make weird noies, they move about in weird ways and make quick jerky movements - this can be disconcerting to dogs especially a dog who is already skittish. And parents should be aware of this.
 
I can understand the Mom not wanting to go to 6 weeks of training to learn sit, stay, heel, etc.  But with children and pets, there is no easy, quick fix.  Especially for a skittish dog who might have missed out on human contact during his/her formative weeks/months or worse - has been abused.
 
Luckily the Mom has plenty of time though - during the pregnancy and while her baby is an infant she can start workinng on some socialization with her dog.
 
Dogs and humans get so much more out of training classes than sit, stay, come. They are around strange humans and other dogs in a relaxed and fun environment.  Getting a dog focused on commands is a great way to calm his/her frazzled nerves. Excerise and mental stimulation are so important for a dog's well-being. Especially a scared dog.  "A tired dog is a happy dog"
Also training is important so that the dog learns not to jump up on baby or a toddler.  So training reduces the chances of injury.
 
SA Big Dawgs offer free training classes every weekend so she can go when it suites her schedule and she is not obligated to a 6 week time block. The classes are on-going.  If the dog is a little skittish around other people or dogs, she can start off in the back and slowly work her way up.
Mom can ask the trainer about getting her dog used to the baby. I'm sure he will have good advice.
 
SA Big Dawgs also has free dog walking and socialization meetups all over town at different times of they day - weekdays and weekends.  Just walking with strangers will be good for the dog.  In the evenings and weekends children are usually at some of the walks which will provide some child time for the dog.  Just exercise extreme caution if she doesn' know how her dog will react around kids.
 
I am a big proponet of rewarding good behavior and ignoring bad behavior such as the techniques taught in Click to Calm.  Taking tiny baby steps. The Click to Calm book doesn't really address children, but the technique could be extrapolated:
 
To prepare the dog for a baby:
  • Play a recorded baby sounds for a few seconds; click, treat. If the dog doesn't look stressed, play the sound a little longer
  • Borrow baby blankets, baby clothes from friends, let your dog smell; click, treat
  • Get your dog used to child-type movements.  Wave your hand briefly; click, treat. If the dog doesn't appear stressed, wave hands more, click treat. 
  • When dog gets better with weird hand movements, start making other child-type movments like running in a weird way. Always stop if dog seems uncomfortable - remember baby steps
  • Bring baby things into the house and make noises with them  bottle, rattles, etc..
  • Use baby scents - powders, oils, etc..
  • It might seem a bit extreme but get a life-like baby doll - once that makes sounds and wiggles. Very slowly, get the dog use to it. Treat it like a real baby.
  • If your dog has any sensitve body areas (like feet, tail, ears), start working on desensitization very slowly.  Toddlers are going to be touching the dog everywhere (so remember supervision)
 
My own personal example of how training a dog can help her disposition. My Matt-Matt is very nervous. Lately he has decided that he is afraid to walk at night.  I took him out one night (against his wishes) and we sat a park in the dark and did some tricks - sit, sit pretty, lady down.  After a couple of minutes, he calmed down and walked normally  - instead of pulling like crazy to get back into the house.  We have done the same thing at the vet's office.
 
More information
 

Animal Education Links  - Go to item 2 - Resources. It has children's books. Can be used when the child is older but also can be used for the parent to teach the child about how to safefly live with pets - i.e. don't bother a dog when he's eating, etc..
 
You Tube - Pet Care For Kids - two of the videos are about pet care - made for kids.  One of the video is just for fun - If I were a cat
 
Humane Society info on Introducing Pets and New Babies - excellent info - including Spay and Neuter.  A spayed or neutered pet is likely to have fewer temperamental issues
 
Also, simply Google "new baby and pets" or "introducing pet to baby," etc.. Also go to the Library and ask the Librarian for info on introducing pet to new baby.
 
Note about relying on experts.  Just my opinion.  If somone gives advice that includes negative reinforcement or punishment or pain or fear, then I'd ignore that advice - no matter how much expertise that professional has.
i.e. never hit, yell, stare. Try not to use electric collars, electric fences

 

For anyone who says they want to give up their dog because they are pregnant or have a baby, show them these videos
There are many more - just Google babies and dogs or something like that.
 
One other thing I forgot to mention that is important when bringing in a baby - The dog will need to learn how not to jump up when excited and other proper mannners for help keep baby safe from injury.
 
Great Advice from a vet:
my favorite trick is to always reward the dog when you have the baby out- so the dog associates the baby with being petted, food, handling etc.  I sometines will recommend ignoring the dog when the baby is sleeping so the dog begins to associate very fond things with the baby.  I am not saying not to touch/pet/feed the dog when the baby is asleep- but reward the dog when the baby is present- the positive reinforment helps build the bond...
just an extra thought