Sunday, August 8, 2010

Escape Artists

 
 
 
Does your dog escape your yard?  Not only is a dog at large illegal but he/she is in danger of getting hurt, killed, or being lost forever.
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We have all probably lived with them or heard of them.  The diggers, the climbers, the jumpers, the latch flippers.  I've known three different dogs at a shelter who would not only open their own latches but also the latches of their neighbors.
 
The really smart ones who figure how to get out of anything are somewhat amusing and interesting to see, but the escape artist dog is in danger of getting lost or injured or worse.  What can you do for the dog who always wants to be someplace else?
 
Of course, the safest place for your for your baby is secure in the house. But here are some things to consider for the Houdini in your family.
 
Contents
 
 
 
 
 
 

Keep your furry friend stimulated and exercised.

 

Sometimes your dog just wants to see what's on the other side. 

Why not show her. A simple walk every day might curb that desire to check things out.
 

Some dogs will escape out of boredom and loneliness

Spend extra time with your companion- take Susie Q to Big Dawg meetups so she can not only get exercise but meet new friends and enjoy new smells. Take Bo to training for mental and physical stimulation. SA Big Dawgs offers free training just about every weekend.
 
Some dogs need to be tired.  It's best to have your dog in resting mode before going off to work or leaving for long periods of time. If it's not to hot or too cold, Take King for a long walk or a nice jog. And play a game of fetch. Mental stimulation is sometimes just as important as exercise. Dogs might need something to do while you are gone.  Give Betsy a food puzzle or a Kong stuffed with peanut butter.
 

Some just want a challenge

It's fun to figure out new ways to escape.  These dogs are probably much safer in the house when you are gone but if they must stay outside, you are gong to have to continually think of new ways to stimulate, challenge, and tire out this dog.  After finishing basic obedience, try advanced obedience, rally obedience, agility, doggie dancing.  Take Buster on meetups often. SA Big Dawgs has meetups all over town almost every day of the week.
 

Try to stay one step ahead of your clever/determined dog

 

Make sure your yard is secure

Walk your yard often to check for holes, loose fence planks, gaps. Keep your fence gate locked.

 

Jumpers

 
 

Climbers

For the dogs who think they are cats, a chain link fence just won't do. Too easy to get a foot-hold.  You will need to get a privacy fence - preferably with the smooth side of the fence facing your yard.  A nice wrought iron fence, concrete fence or vinyl fence might also do. Also the device that curves inward might also help. Or put a top on your fence as noted above.
 

Diggers

  • A few rocks/bricks by the fence isn't going to slow him/her down
  • Pour concrete all around at least two feet down and several inches up above the fence
    • ** note, before doing this, get with your city code compliance, building inspector or other appropriate agency.  Also call the utility companies to make sure it's okay. This might affect underground gas, phone, cable, electrical lines.
  • Try some chicken wire underground, beneath the fence
 

Destroyers

You might have seen some during your walks in the neighborhood. The outside dog who finds a week spot in the wooden fence and continuously throws himself on that area until the boards come apart. Or the determined dog who just eats through wood
  • If your privacy fence is the "basket weave" type, try converting it so that all planks are flat and smooth. It will be harder for a determined dog to pull the planks apart
  • Try installing the planks with screws instead of nails. They might hold a little better
  • If possible, get a concrete fence or wrought iron fence - much harder to destroy than wood 
 

Latch Flippers

Lock the latch even if your dog isn't a latch flipper.  If your dog isn't a latch flipper now, he might figure it out one day. You don't want Buddy to figure it out while you are at work.
 

The Gate or Door Bolters

These dogs will knock you down and almost injure themselves to get out of the gate or door when opened.  Install a double gate like the city pet parks have.  Put a open doggie play pen in front of your gate or door.  The best thing for this type of dog is to teach the wait or stay command. Talk to a trainer - attend a free Big Dawgs training sessions and ask Jimmy about this.
 

A Word or Two About Electric Fences, Underground Fences

  • If you choose this method, be aware that the dog must be trained.  The package will tell you that the fence is to be used in conjunction with training. Consult a trainer or other expert
  •  A determined dog (one in chase mode) might ignore the shock and run out of the fenced area.  But when the animal is done with the chase and tries to return home, he/she will be deterred by the shock
  • The electric fence will not stop other animals/people from entering your yard. It will not stop passersby from harassing your dog (this happens all to often) 
  • The electric collars that go with the fence are heavy must be worn tightly to produce the shock. Before subjecting your dog to this, I would suggest that you wear the collar all day tightly around your neck to see how it feels.
  • And you should also subject yourself to the shock to see how it feels if your dog comes close to or cross the fence line
  • The electricity could go out, the batteries could go dead and then your dog isn't as deterred from escaping
  • A power surge or other malfunction could cause a shock to your dog even when he or she isn't trying to escape
    •  This happened to someone I know. The dogs freaked and left the yard and refused to come back home. When they were finally found, they fought to not go back to the house because they were so afraid of the shock.
    • Here is a story of a dog that was killed by an electric fence: http://www.dogsdeservebetter.com/sophie.html
  • An electric fence is probably an example of a negative reinforcement (the shock is punishment for leaving the yard). Be sure to try positive reinforcement first - training, exercise, stimulation, etc.. before trying a negative reinforcement.  Just like with any other issue with your dog.
 

Don't use devices that will injure your dog

Barbed wires and hot wires can cause serious injury.  Especially barbed wires. While a human might be deterred from climbing a barbed wire fence, a dog will not know the danger and will not be deterred.
 

Never Ever leave a tethered, chained, tied out dog unattended

  • Dogs have hung themselves to death, and have lost limbs due to tethering accidents.  Dogs can get tangled and loose their access to shade, food, water.
  • Tethered dogs who are not fenced in are picked on by passersby which can make them nervous, neurotic, mean or aggressive
  • Tethered dogs that are not fenced in can't escape from danger
  • Even if a tethered dog isn't picked on, he or she can still become extremely territorial and aggressive
I repeat - never ever leave a tethered dog unattended - it's just not safe - ever. But if you feel you must, there are some precautions to take (but please just don't do it). 
  • Never attach a tether to a choke chain. This is extremely dangerous and uncomfortable and a dog will choke herself to death.  The choking of the chain will not stop a dog from pulling at the leash. When the dog feels the choke, he will actually pull harder.
  • Never use a very heavy chain - not only is this against the law. It's uncomfortable and cruel
  • Never attach a tether to a fence or have a tether close to a fence. This is the easiest way to a dog to hang herself
  • If you must use a tether, try a trolley type. This is still dangerous but it will minimize the danger of the dog wrapping himself around a pole or tree
  • If you must use a tether (please don't), make sure the leash is at least 10 feet long.  It is against the law to have the tether too short
  • Check on the dog as often as possible to make sure she hasn't wrapped the chain around her neck or legs; and make sure her collar isn't too tight, ensure the collar has rubbed your baby's skin raw, etc..
  • Clean up the area often - dogs (just like humans) do not want to eat, sleep, live around their own elimination
  • Check to make sure the dog has continual access to fresh, clean, cool water. Water must be changed out at least once a day. More often is better
Note: If you like for your dog to keep you company in the front yard while you wash the car, pull weeds, etc.. Then this type of attended tethering is perfectly safe and much safer than letting your dog run loose in the front yard. If your dog is loose, he can run out and harass joggers or other dog walkers, he could run out and get hit by a car, etc..
 

Spay or Neuter

Speutered dogs are less likely to roam looking for sex and a spayed female is less likely to attract male dogs who might destroy your fence trying to get to her
 

Doggie Doors

As noted above, your dog is always safer in the house when you are gone.  For some people this might be impossible because of long work hours, dogs who destroy the house, etc..
Instead of locking the dog outside all day while you are gone, consider a doggie door. This way the dog can go outside when he or she needs to potty or run around but Max can also go in the house when frightened, to hot, too cold, wants to watch TV, etc..  Even well-adjusted dogs can be frightened by thunderstorms, rain, fireworks, cars backfiring etc.. A scared dog will try to escape.  If the dog has a doggie door, he she might run into the house instead of trying to get out of the yard.
Of course, you will still want to make sure your yard is extra secure.  I
 
 

 

Doggie Door Cautions

  • If your dog can get out then other creatures can get in. If you live close to a wooded or undeveloped area or if your house backs up to a green belt, think twice about the woodland creatures who might come in your doggie door.
  • Additionally, if your dog is very large, then a human criminal might also be able to get into your doggie door.  For those folks who have a large doggie doors cut into their home, some suggest putting a dog house (with a hole in the back) up against the doggie door. That way potential thieves who are casing your house will see a dog going in and out of a dog house and not suspect a large doggie door to break into.
  • Some dogs love to run in and out of doggie doors. If your yard has any dirt areas, prepare to get a lot of that dirt in your house 
 

Is your dog outside because he or she destroys the house,  potties in the house?

  • As mentioned above, try keeping your dog stimulated and exercised
  • You can also crate your dog when you are gone.  Be sure to talk to a trainer about acclimating your dog to a crate
  • Talk to a trainer about potty training.
 

Does your dog have separation anxiety?

Sometimes no matter what you do, your dog will be determined to leave the crate, house, or yard when you are gone. Consult a trainer or behaviorist for your dog's safety and well-being. Here is some info on Separation Anxiety (note anti-anxiety medication should be a very last resort and when used should be used in conjunction with training, behavior modification, exercise, stimulation, etc..: - these medications can affect your baby's liver and/or cause other complications. 
 

Extra precautions must be taken when living with shy, unsocialized, nervous or skittish dogs:

http://fuzzychildren.blogspot.com/2009/11/precautions-when-living-with-shy-dogs.html
 
 

Things out of our control (or are they?)

Neighbor Dogs

So your dog doesn't dig or climb or destroy fences, but your neighbor dog does. Try to calmly and amicably talk to your neighbor about the situation to see if you can come to some kind of resolution. If that doesn't work, then it's up to you to keep your dog safe.  It might not be fair that you have to do all of the work or spend extra money if it's not your fault, but it worth your dog's safety.
If the neighbor dog digs, see the advice above about digging; if the neighbor dog jumps the fence, build a taller fence, etc.. If your neighbor's dog rips apart your would fence, put up a concrete fence.
If you have a shared fence, then you might have to get your neighbor's approval to make modifications. If this isn't possible. Put up your own fence inside of the shared fence.  This will be expensive and will make your yard smaller but your dog and maybe you and your family will be safer.  If you build a second fence, leave plenty of room in between the two fences for several reasons:
  • It will be easy to mow or weed eat if there is room between the fences
  • If the neighbor dog is a jumper, the dog will jump his fence then fall in between the two fences.  It will be hard to jump the 2nd fence because Cujo won't have any room to get a running start
  • If the neighbor dog is a digger, it will take her a while to get through one fence, then she'll have to start all over once she gets through to your fence. Hopefully she'll be tired out or maybe you can be home by the time she makes it through the 2nd fence.

 

Utility Workers

Keep your gate securely locked at all times. Put up a sign that states: "Dogs on Premises - do not open gate" or something to that effect.
 

Bad Weather, Fireworks, etc..

If you know that inclement weather is in the forecast - keep your dog inside.  Always, always keep your dog inside on New Years, Halloween and Independence day. 
  • Your dog will be frightened by loud noises and will try to escape
  • Some people still fire guns into the air on certain holidays. You dog is in danger of getting hit by a stray bullet or falling bullet
  • A lot of people are up to mischief on the holidays - especially Halloween. It's not safe for your dog to be outside unattended. 
 

Thieves, abusers

If your dog is in danger of being abused or stolen, she will have to stay in the house. There is just no way around that.  This can be a problem in certain neighborhoods with any pet.  Certain breeds attract thieves and abusers: Pit Bulls/Am Staffs and other pure breeds, toy breeds.  Most of the time, it's just not safe for those dogs to be outside unattended.  
 
 

Walking our Dogs

When walking our pet, be sure he/she is wearing a secure collar or harness
A spooked dog can easily slip a buckle or snap collar.  Walk your dog with a martingale collar. Be sure to get with a trainer or other expert about proper fitting
Choke chains and prong collars should only be used after consulting a trainer or behaviorist about proper placement and usage
Harnesses are fine as well. But be aware that some dogs can slip a harness, probably less so than with a buckle or snap collar though. See more info at: http://fuzzychildren.blogspot.com/2009/06/dog-walking-devices.html
 
 

Doggie Day Care, Dog Walkers

If you can afford  it and if your dog is up for it, consider putting your dog in doggie day care or hire a dog walker to come in to check on your dogs while you are way.  Even if you don't do this everyday; it will help with boredom and lonliness
 

Safe Outdoor Cats

 

Finances

Times are tough. Even in good times, coming up with 1 to 2 thousand dollars to put up a new fence can seem like an insurmountable task.  But think about our babies' safety. Is it worth that much? If Buffy escapes a fence in need of repair, a vet bill can run in the thousands.  Not to mention Buffy could suffer needlessly or even loose her life.  Even if Buffy doesn't get hurt, an at-large dog is illegal.  And an at-large dog can be a nuisance to all those want to use the street - walkers, joggers, bikers, children on their way to school, etc..
If you know your dog has some aggressive tendencies then keeping the dog safe is especially important.   
 
Think of some things to cut back on to save enough money for a new fence (or just keep Snowflake in the house)
How much is cable or satellite TV now? $100.00 a month? Turn off the cable, watch http://www.hulu.com instead and have enough money for a fence in less than 2 years.  Cut back on eating out and junk foods - shave another year off the saving time.  Give up alcohol, cigarettes, etc.. Now you might have your brand new sturdy fence in 6 months.  Six months seems like a long time, but if you did not start saving right now, where would be you be in 6 months - still without a safe, secure fence.
 
 
 
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Monday, August 2, 2010

Tails

Tails and Teeth

You see a dog playing with a toy. As you approach, the dog starts wagging her tail.  You of course assume that Lady wants to play so you try to grab the toy to throw for her and Lady snaps at you.
Did Lady aggress for no apparent reason or were the warning signs there?
 
">Lupe Taking a break at Tobin Park
 
Contrary to popular belief, a wagging tail doesn't always mean "I'm friendly" or "let's play" or "I'm happy to see you".  Some dogs will display what I call an "alpha wag".  Actually I don't remember if I call it that or if I read it somewhere and am now plagiarizing the term :)
 
Akitas can be notorious for this.  My Akita Mix, Cisco (RIP, baby). Had 3 different types of wags|
- Very loose and wide - I'm happy to see you or let's play
- Quicker but still a little loose- I don't want to have to hurt you, but if you don't fall down and expose your belly right now, there is going to be trouble
- Very stiff, short bursts - come any closer and you'll draw back a knub.
 
Some dogs show their "alpha wag" by putting their tales straight up in the air and wagging stiffly. Actually, it's not really a wag.. Maybe a better term is a quiver.
 
So how do you know if a dog is displaying an "alpha wag" or a happy wag? Look at the rest of the dog's body.  Is Junior stiff? Are his hackles up? Are his eyes soft or hard?  Are his lips loose or are they forming a "C" or an "O"?  Is his mouth open?
 
Is an alpha wag always bad?  No, but just be aware. Most dogs will pick up an alpha wag right away.  You might see two dogs meet. One stands tall, displays the alpha wag. The beta dog might hang her head, stick out her tongue or lick the alpha dog.  The very submissive dog might fall on his back and expose his belly and neck. So now these dogs have established the pecking order.
 
But be careful. If two dogs approach each other - each standing tall and stiff; each with tails high and stiff - this could mean trouble - two alpha dogs; neither one wanting to give up authority.
 
Teeth
A dog showing his teeth doesn't necessarily mean he is being aggressive. Some dogs are just grinners.  Some show their teeth when they are being submissive (submissive grin). How do you know the difference?  Once again, check their other body signals.   See below for some info from the Humane Society of the United States:
 
Bottom line - always be extremely cautious around any dog whom you don't know.  If the pet parent is around, always ask for permission before touching.
 
 
A great book that addresses how dogs communicate is How to Speak Dog by Dr Stanley Coren. Available at the San Antonio and Randolph AFB Library.

  

 

 

 

 

Canine Behavior, Aggression, Fear, etc.. 

Taken from Humane Society of the United States Training Program
 
 
 
   
 
 
   
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 

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Friday, July 30, 2010

Pasting... Cancel

Hi There
My name is Lupe
And what I'd like to do today
is talk to you about a place
where my friends and I love to play

San Antonio Big Dawgs is the name of the group
But you don't have be big to stay in loop

Just check out my little friend Mojo
He's a JRT so he's always ready to go

There's me and my brothers
35 pounds is about all we weigh
We like to go to training
Where we learn come, sit and stay

You see, big is a state of mind, an attitude
So little dogs can join us to

The Human Top dog is Kevin
He's been in charge since 2009, August 11th
Next to T, his wife
His best dog Indee is the love of his life

The Co-Organizer is Jimmy. He's really smart
He started a training program right from the start
The training is so much fun, it makes Indee bark

In addition to training, we go on lots of walks
This gives our humans a chance to socialize and talk

Okay, Training, walking, what else do we do?
Oh! We float in rivers in nice big tubes
This fun activity keeps everyone cool
During the hot summer months
It's so much fun, we like it a whole bunch

Sometimes we even go to restaurants and have lunch

So I've talked about all the fun things
But we have an important message we'd like bring
Dogs are part of the family and should be treated that way
That human-canine bond is so important today.

Tell all your friends about Big Dawgs, Kevin and Jimmy
Let's make San Antonio a pet friendly City!

And what I'd like to do today
is talk to you about a place
where my friends and I love to play

San Antonio Big Dawgs is the name of the group
But you don't have be big to stay in loop

Just check out my little friend Mojo
He's a JRT so he's always ready to go

There's me and my brothers
35 pounds is about all we weigh
We like to go to training
Where we learn come, sit and stay

You see, big is a state of mind, an attitude
So little dogs can join us to

The Human Top dog is Kevin
He's been in charge since 2009, August 11th
Next to T, his wife
His best dog Indee is the love of his life

The Co-Organizer is Jimmy. He's really smart
He started a training program right from the start
The training is so much fun, it makes Indee bark

In addition to training, we go on lots of walks
This gives our humans a chance to socialize and talk

Okay, Training, walking, what else do we do?
Oh! We float in rivers in nice big tubes
This fun activity keeps everyone cool
During the hot summer months
It's so much fun, we like it a whole bunch

Sometimes we even go to restaurants and have lunch

So I've talked about all the fun things
But we have an important message we'd like bring
Dogs are part of the family and should be treated that way
That human-canine bond is so important today.

Tell all your friends about Big Dawgs, Kevin and Jimmy
Let's make San Antonio a pet friendly City!

Posted by at

Pasting... Cancel

 

They try to tell me she's just a dog

But she's not; can't you see

She's just as special as you and me

 

They even tried to say she's feral and could never be tamed

I didn't care; I loved her just the same

 

Humans and dogs are alike in so many ways

If you made a list, it would go on for days.

 

We get hungry, we get cold

We get arthritis when we get old

 

Dogs get a lot of the same ailments that humans do

Like allergies, coughs, even the flu

 

They tell me not to call her "fur baby"

That's she's just property

But she'll always be my baby to me

 

I know when she is happy and sad

I know about the things that make her glad

 

She didn't ask to live with me, I chose to take her in

Now I owe her; she's my best friend

She lives inside with me and sits on my chairs

Some say that lowers my status as master

But I don't care

 

Dogs and humans both have hearts

And either heart can break

To be away from their human companion is an awful fate

 

So bring your dog in the house

Onto your bed, your sofa, into your heart

Today's the day to make a new start

 

Pets are social animals

Another human trait they share

Wherever you are, they want to be there

 

So legally, she's my property

But spiritually, she's my whole world

She's my fur baby;  my special girl


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Thursday, July 29, 2010

Safe Outdoor Cats

Safe Outdoor Cats
I'm sorry to hear that you might have give up your babies.  I'm so glad that you are trying to keep them safe.  Please consider a safe, cat-friendly outdoor/indoor enclosure before giving them up. 
 
You can put up a chainlink fence outside around a window in the house (put a top on the chainlink fence). Inside the house, put an enclosure around that window that extends into part of the room. That indoor enclosure should also have a top. The put a little cat door around the window.   So that way, the cats can come in and out, but not be mixed with the other pets. And the cat door will keep some of the heat/cold from getting into the house. 
Or if you have or can create a  spare room, then close off that room. That way the cats can come in and out of that room.
The indoor and outdoor enclosures and/or room can be set up to be cat friendly - scratching posts, carpeted "cat trees" to climb, some pet friendly grasses, etc.. Maybe some nice pando music * piped in.
I've even seen some really fancy indoor enclosures with little fountains and streams.  Will see if I can find some examples on youtube when I get home.  Can't really get on there at work.
But in the mean time, here are some examples you can ponder.
 
Here is a house in San Antonio:  House with outdoor enclosure. This is probably made for birds and you won't need anything this fancy, but hopefully it will give you an idea of what I'm talking about.
 
Other ideas here:  Safe Outdoor Cats
 
Some people might think this is crazy, but think about it:  Get your cats used to a harness. Take them for  walks. Yes, people will look at you like you are crazy, but why not?  Most puppies hate a leash at first but once they learn how much fun it is to go for walks, they won't leave you alone.  Yes, your cats are already grown, but I've taught many adults dogs who have never been on leash before (including my own) to learn to like the leash.
 
Something else to consider if the harness idea just doesn't work for you - Musical rooms.  Lots of folks do it.  Put the other pets in a room or a couple of rooms or crates (I don't know the size of your house), then bring in the outdoor cats and spend time with them.  Then put the outdoor cats back out, bring out the other pets and spend time with them.  Do this about 3 times a day.  Might require you to get up a little earlier because you'll want to do this before work, but it might be worth it.  See what other activities you can cut back on to make this work.
 
Also talk to a behaviorist to see how you can integrate the two cats into the household.  It appears that your dogs are already cat friendly.  Maybe if you take baby steps - starting with the indoor enclosure, maybe the cats can eventually get along with the rest of the family.  Or at least perhaps they can all be out together when you are home to supervise, then separated when you are not at home.
 
Outdoor enclosures, behaviorists, etc.. - all very expensive, and times are tight for everyone.  But look at things you can sell or cut back on.  Try to find used chain link fencing, see what you can do yourself.  Depending on how determined the kitties are, you might be able to get by with 50 dollars worth of goat fencing and 30 dollars worth of posts to put something together yourself.  You can ask the customer service folks at Lowes or Home Depot to help with a plan
Or Google "How to Build a Cat Enclosure to see what you can come up with
Here is one example: How to Build a Cat Enclosure
 
* Pando Music - Dr Dan Kirby mentioned this product on his radio show.  He endorsed it.

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Friday, July 23, 2010

Walking a Reactive Dog



C:\Users\Walker\AppData\Local\Microsoft\Windows\Temporary Internet Files\Content.IE5\ZOV4YN8G\MP900448587[1].jpgWALKING A REACTIVE DOG

Note: I am a not a certified trainer or behaviorist. These are only my personal thoughts as a dog lover

This information is based on my personal experience, my personal philosophies, and my partial reading of an excellent book titled Click to Calm: Healing the Aggressive Dog by Karen Pryor.  Take from the below info whichever parts work for you

 

Walking a large, strong reactive dog can be a daunting task. It might be tempting to stop walking the dog; but this will not help the problem and will probably make it worse because now you have a large, bored, destructive dog on your hands.

 

 

 

In this Article

 

  1. SAFETY
  2. Avoidance
  3. Training
    1. Only positive reinforcement
  4. Check your own behaviors
  5. Free Training Available
  6. Free Dog Walking and Socialization Available

 

 

 

SAFETY

 

  • Dogs with known aggression issues must never be walked on a regular buckle or snap collar. The potential is just too great that the dog might slip the collar. 
  • Always use a properly fitted martingale collar or a slip lead (martingale is safer; a slip lead can choke). A Gentle Leader would also be acceptable.  Less secure than a martingale but safer than a buckle collar is a harness. Some dogs can slip harnesses. Still have a buckle collar for ID.  So the dog should be wearing at least two devices - a buckle collar for ID and a martingale or slip leash, or harness or gentle leader for walking
  • Absolutely no flexi leads during neighborhood walks.  Walkers must use a sturdy 4 to 6 foot lead and keep a good grip on the lead at all times.
  • Walkers must wear sturdy shoes - no flip-flops.
  • If the dog is extra aggressive and extra strong, consider a basket muzzle - which allows for airflow, panting, even drinking and taking treats. Still exercise caution. A dog can remove a muzzle if determined enough.  The drawback to wearing a muzzle during neighborhood walks is of course if you are confronted by an aggressive stray, your dog won't be able to defend herself.
  • NO dog parks!  At least not until the issues are resolved.  Not only is this not fair to others at the park (they become participants in your training issues whether they chose to or not) but it is also a way to set your dog up for failure - too much at once.

Avoidance

 

This is not the answer and it won't fix the problem, but this is better than not walking the dog, and it is a place to start while you are working on your dog's issues:

Avoid Other Dogs as much as possible.  Walk late at night and early in the morning. Walk in the rain.  Keep an eye out for other dogs and go in another direction when you see one coming
 

Training

No negative reinforcement.  No punishing

Never yell, poke or hit the dog when he/she is reacting. (not with hands, not with newspaper, not with the leash)  This will just make matters worse. The dog will associate bad things happening to her when she sees another dog, and it will just make her dislike other dogs even more.  Please note that it doesn't matter whether or not popping your dog with a leash hurts or not. The act is still negative.

Only positive reinforcement


Reward the dog when he is being good.  If you have someone willing to help you with this: (Use a basket muzzle if safety is a big issue)

Have a friend stand still with a calm, not reactive dog in a sit.  Stand back as far away as your reactive dog needs to be before barking.  When your reactive dog isn't barking or lunging or growling, click, treat.  If your dog acts up, Do nothing; just stand there until she calms down. 

Note that this is not a quick fix. This could take weeks.  Once your dog is comfortable at, say 300 feet.  Then try moving in an arc just a little closer. Try to stop before your dog reacts. Tell your dog to sit, praise, click, treat. 

 

Keep working on this day after day, week after week, until you can get closer and closer.

 

If you don't have a friend with a calm dog, you will just have to practice this technique during your neighborhood walks. 

 

When you see a dog approaching, get your dog's attention before he starts reacting.  Talk weird baby talk, make weird sounds.  I personally like to blow lightly on a party horn. Put your dog in a sit, have your dog "watch me,", etc.. When your dog is not reacting, click, treat, praise highly. Continue getting his attention until the offending dog is gone.

Check your own behaviors

 

Do you get overly anxious when another dog approaches? Do you hold the leash tighter? If so, your dog will notice this and react accordingly.  I've found that using the basket muzzle allows me to relax a little more. Not hold my dog too tightly. 

Free Training Available

SA Big Dawgs has weekly free training sessions.  You can start out far from the rest of the group and work your way up. You can also talk with the trainer about your issues

Free Dog Walking and Socialization Available

SA Big Dawgs has free dog walking and socialization meetups  all over town, most days of the weeks.  You can start out far from the group and work your way up.

 
Also see,

La Trenda's Progression of Reactions to a loose dog

 
And see Item 3 at Animal Education Links for more animal info

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Thursday, July 22, 2010

Taming Vet Bills

Taming Vet Bills
Times are tough. Many people are unemployed or under-employed.  With so many other things tugging at our pocketbooks we need to be sure that our fuzzy kids aren't left out when it comes to proper vet care.
 
Contents
 
 
 
 

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. 

It's an old cliche' but so very relevant in so many situations.  If you don't get a 30 dollar oil change every few months, you can wind up spending thousands to repair your engine.  If you don't get the proper preventative care for your pets, you could wind up spending thousands at the veterinary hospital.
  • Get your pets vaccinated.  Parvovirus and distemper are awful diseases that affect many unvaccinated pets - especially puppies. Pet parents who have experienced these diseases can tell you that their dogs suffer greatly. Sometimes a pet parent can spend thousands of dollars at the vet and the dog still dies.  Those that survive can have life long complications - especially from distemper. 
    • Vaccinations against Rabies, Parvovirus, and Distemper are only needed every one to three years (depending on the vaccine).  Luckily, these are not surprise or emergency vaccinations - pet parents can save money specifically for these things.  Rabies vaccinations are required by law. Rabies disease is transmittable and potentially fatal to humans and most mammals (dogs, cats, raccoons, etc). 
    • Puppies and kittens must get a series of shots, starting at 6 weeks of age and every 3-4 weeks thereafter until their last vaccine is given after they are 16 weeks old. Talk to your vet about the schedule and please please don't let your pet on the ground or on the floor in public until he/she is done with shots.  Please don't let him/her in the dog park, Petco, Petsmart, etc.. They can pick up diseases easily before they are done with shots.
    • note: For the more experienced pet parents -  I know there are some schools of thought about how often or even if vaccs are needed.  I'm not smart enough to debate anyone on this subject. But I will say with some confidence though that if you choose not to vaccinate your pet for health reasons then titer testing is a must to make sure your pet still has antibodies. But this is a discussion for another time. This post is about saving money. Titer testing costs several hundred dollars. Vaccinations are quite cheap in comparison.
 
  • Keep your pets on heartworm preventative each and every month.  Heartworm is an awful preventable disease that is often fatal if not treated.  Worms grow in the heart and cause all kinds of complications- heart disease and enlargement and- eventually death.  Many dogs feel like they are choking as the worms fill up the heart.  Treatment for heartworms consists of basically poisoning the worms. Then the worms have to be absorbed in the dogs circulation. Some dogs don't even survive the treatment.  Also the treatment is very expensive. Expect to spend 600 dollars or more for treatment depending on the size of your dog.  Heartworm preventative will cost less then ten dollars a month depending on the size of your dog.  That's less than 30 cents day. Once again - not a surprise expense - something a pet parent can prepare for. 
    • Dogs that are mostly inside still need preventative.  All it takes is one mosquito bite for your dog to become infected.
    • Also note: If you have never used heartworm preventative, get with your vet first.  An inexpensive test needs to be done to insure your dog doesn't already have heartworms; and certain breeds (collie type breeds) might have medical issues with certain brands of heartworm preventatives.
    • Also be aware that heartworm medication is a prescription and generally requires one in order to obtain it.

 

  • Keep Fifi's or Fido's weight in check.  Obese dogs have the same complications as obese humans - heart and joint disease, diabetes, hypothyroidism, etc.. Keeping weight at an acceptable level will save on vet bills.  Feed your dog a nutritious dog food (talk to your vet) and cut  back on table scraps and dog biscuits.  Some human foods are okay for an occasional low calorie treat - carrots, apples, etc.. Once again talk to your vet and see a previous post about foods that are bad for our pets: http://www.meetup.com/sabigdawgs/messages/boards/thread/8403478
    • Note: I'm not smart enough to talk about a raw diet.  If you decide to do this, do your research and talk to your vet

 

  • Keep your fence in good repair. Replacing a board might cost 5 dollars.  Much cheaper than the 600 to 1,500 dollar vet bill you will incur if your dog gets hit by a car.  Fence only 4 feet high and your dog keeps jumping it?  If you can't afford a 6 foot fence right now, keep Fido inside until you can save up the money.  Sometimes no matter what you do, your dog will get out of the yard. Some of them are just that good. These dogs should only be allowed outside when they can be attended to.  These dogs are not only in danger of causing you a huge vet expense but they could loose their lives, get lost or stolen.  More info on escape artists can be found here: http://docs.google.com/View?id=ddtbr7bw_783f77z5sc3. Additionally, even if your dog is not an escape artist, never take him/her out in public without a secure collar  or harness and leash.  Not only is this the law in most areas, but more importantly, any dog can get distracted and take off.  A dog running after a rabbit might not notice the speeding car coming in her/his direction.  
  • Please don't let your dog ride in the back of a pickup truck.  All it takes is that one time for your dog to jump out while you are speeding down the highway - huge vet bill or worse- dead.  Not only could your dog get injured or killed but you might even cause a traffic accident.  Some folks might say that their dog has never jumped from the back of a moving truck, but my response is another old cliche' - "there is a first time for everything".  One example (of many I hear): A lady who was needing help finding a lost dog was telling me that her dog always walked down the street to go visit the neighbor's dog and "he always comes back".  A short time later, I received another call from a good Samaritan.  The dog was found dead.  So the baby always came back - except for that one time that he was run over by a car.  You dog might always ride well in the back of a truck - except for that one time he sees a deer or smells a female dog in heat.  Restraining our dog in the back of the truck is a bad idea as well. The dog can try to jump out and hang him/herself.  Pet parents should also be extra careful about letting their dogs stick their whole head or parts of their body out of the car window.  They could jump out or get hit by flying debris.
 
 

Establish a relationship with your vet

Find a vet you like and go to him/her for all of your vet care needs.  If your dog gets injured or sick, your regular vet might be more willing to work with you on a payment plan.  Shot clinics may be a great way to save money (however, often they are no less expensive then the regular vet and many times do not provide a complete physical examination); but a yearly check up at your vet is a must  - not only for preventative care but to also establish that relationship.  Also, if a vet sees your dog regularly, he or she will be more attuned to your dog's needs and will be able to see health changes more easily. I get my dogs nails trimmed and anal glands expressed at the vet about once a month. Sometimes I go to my vet for nothing.  We just sit in the lobby and I give him treats.  This helps me for two reasons - a. 3 of my dogs are very shy and nervous.  I want them to get accustomed to the vet's office and I want them to know that going to vet office doesn't always mean something bad.  b. And of course, it establishes that relationship. The staff there knows me and my dogs. 
 

Get small health issues taken care of right away 

So you see a tiny little bald spot on your dog. You don't want to spend 30 or 50 dollars or so for a vet visit for something so small?  Well think about what it will cost when the spot gets bigger and it's harder to treat. What if that little spot turns out to be sarcoptic mange - which is transmittable to humans.  Take care of small problems before they become big problems.  Not only is it much cheaper in the long run, but your baby will avoid needless suffering.
 

Get your pet spayed or neutered

This is a good idea for so many reasons - pet over population, health issues, etc.. A neutered dog might be less likely to want to roam. A 200 dollar spay surgery is much cheaper than taking care of 15 puppies - or worse. Some Mamas have complications during birth just like humans and require c-sections or worse- can die. The vet bill can be very expensive and your dog will needlessly suffer.  There are many low cost or even free spay neuter clinics in San Antonio. Two Hundred Dollars is probably about what you'd pay at a regular vet. Lost cost (and sometimes free) spay/neuter resources are also available: http://fuzzychildren.blogspot.com/2010/03/low-cost-spay-neuter-vaccinations-in.html
 

Get Pet Insurance

Shop around and read the fine print.  Some deals are better than others. Some are not deals at all. Ask your vet for advice.  It will be easier to come up with 10 to 20 dollars per month for insurance rather than come up with 600 dollars for an MRI or X ray if something goes wrong.  We have medical insurance for humans - why not for our companions?  keep in mind all insurance polices require upfront payment and then will reimburse you. 
 

Establish a savings account for your dog

Even if you only have a couple of dollars to spare, put it away for Rex.  If you don't have 2 or 3 dollars a month to put away, then start looking at what you can do without to come up with some spare change (but more is better).  Eat out less, give up foods that aren't good for you.  If you smoke or drink alcohol - give that up.  Give up that cable or satellite TV.  Instead of going out to the movies or to a night club, socialize with people and other dogs at free dog walking meetups.
So times are tight and you've done all that already and there is still no money?  Look a little harder.  Nutritionally, a meal of beans and brown rice has about as much protein as streak.  And it provides plenty of vitamins, minerals and fiber. You can get about 10 or more servings out of a 50 cent pack of dried lentils.  Gave up meat, candy and pastries already?  Can you eat a little less food?  Many of us eat way more than we need.  Can you cut back on a snack a day for the health of your dog?
 

Establish credit

Just so you will have it for emergencies.  Don't use it to buy new clothes or a game station. If you haven't established credit yet or if you are trying to repair bad credit; then you might have to start with cash secured cards or department store cards. Buy some necessities with them (groceries, school clothes, etc..) to get your credit going - but be sure to pay them off right away. Don't even wait until the end of the month. Have the money to pay the bill before you use the card. For vet expenses, also look into Care Credit: http://www.carecredit.com/vetmed/
 

When that big expense happens

So, you've kept your dog safe in your yard or on leash; you've kept her or his weight to an acceptable level and fed her/him quality dog food.  But a big vet bill still comes in and you are low on cash - what do you do?  Pay day loans are always a bad idea. But if you don't have credit established, then you might have to consider that.  Pawn something  - Jewelery, furniture, electronics, etc.. Anything that is worth less than your dog's life or health.  Which is everything.  If you spend time calling around to see which vet is the cheapest, the dog could be getting worse and the expense could be going up - not to mention your dog might be suffering.
 
So you've sold everything, you are hungry from lack of eating and you still can't afford the vet bill?
Charitable organizations are over taxed but give them a try -
 
 
Our dogs do so much for us and ask for so little in return.  We should try our best to make sure they are safe, happy, and well.  For more info on vet expenses,  and for information on free or low cost spay/neuter vaccinations, please see:
 
For information on cutting back on expenses - The Tightwad Gazette is an excellent resource - don't buy it. Get it at the Library:
 
Other useful info on saving money
 
 
La Trenda
210-649-0391
 
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