Friday, July 30, 2010

Pasting... Cancel

Hi There

My name is Lupe

And what I'd like to do today
is talk to you about a place
where my friends and I love to play

San Antonio Big Dawgs is the name of the group
But you don't have be big to stay in loop

Just check out my little friend Mojo
He's a JRT so he's always ready to go

There's me and my brothers
35 pounds is about all we weigh
We like to go to training
Where we learn come, sit and stay

You see, big is a state of mind, an attitude
So little dogs can join us to

The Human Top dog is Kevin
He's been in charge since 2009, August 11th
Next to T, his wife
His best dog Indee is the love of his life

The Co-Organizer is Jimmy. He's really smart
He started a training program right from the start
The training is so much fun, it makes Indee bark

In addition to training, we go on lots of walks
This gives our humans a chance to socialize and talk

Okay, Training, walking, what else do we do?
Oh! We float in rivers in nice big tubes
This fun activity keeps everyone cool
During the hot summer months
It's so much fun, we like it a whole bunch

Sometimes we even go to restaurants and have lunch

So I've talked about all the fun things
But we have an important message we'd like bring
Dogs are part of the family and should be treated that way
That human-canine bond is so important today.

Tell all your friends about Big Dawgs, Kevin and Jimmy
Let's make San Antonio a pet friendly City!

And what I'd like to do today
is talk to you about a place
where my friends and I love to play

San Antonio Big Dawgs is the name of the group
But you don't have be big to stay in loop

Just check out my little friend Mojo
He's a JRT so he's always ready to go

There's me and my brothers
35 pounds is about all we weigh
We like to go to training
Where we learn come, sit and stay

You see, big is a state of mind, an attitude
So little dogs can join us to

The Human Top dog is Kevin
He's been in charge since 2009, August 11th
Next to T, his wife
His best dog Indee is the love of his life

The Co-Organizer is Jimmy. He's really smart
He started a training program right from the start
The training is so much fun, it makes Indee bark

In addition to training, we go on lots of walks
This gives our humans a chance to socialize and talk

Okay, Training, walking, what else do we do?
Oh! We float in rivers in nice big tubes
This fun activity keeps everyone cool
During the hot summer months
It's so much fun, we like it a whole bunch

Sometimes we even go to restaurants and have lunch

So I've talked about all the fun things
But we have an important message we'd like bring
Dogs are part of the family and should be treated that way
That human-canine bond is so important today.

Tell all your friends about Big Dawgs, Kevin and Jimmy
Let's make San Antonio a pet friendly City!

Pasting... Cancel

They try to tell me she's just a dog

But she's not; can't you see

She's just as special as you and me

They even tried to say she's feral and could never be tamed

I didn't care; I loved her just the same

Humans and dogs are alike in so many ways

If you made a list, it would go on for days.

We get hungry, we get cold

We get arthritis when we get old

Dogs get a lot of the same ailments that humans do

Like allergies, coughs, even the flu

They tell me not to call her "fur baby"

That's she's just property

But she'll always be my baby to me

I know when she is happy and sad

I know about the things that make her glad

She didn't ask to live with me, I chose to take her in

Now I owe her; she's my best friend

She lives inside with me and sits on my chairs

Some say that lowers my status as master

But I don't care

Dogs and humans both have hearts

And either heart can break

To be away from their human companion is an awful fate

So bring your dog in the house

Onto your bed, your sofa, into your heart

Today's the day to make a new start

Pets are social animals

Another human trait they share

Wherever you are, they want to be there

So legally, she's my property

But spiritually, she's my whole world

She's my fur baby; my special girl

Thursday, July 29, 2010

Safe Outdoor Cats

I'm sorry to hear that you might have give up your babies. I'm so glad that you are trying to keep them safe. Please consider a safe, cat-friendly outdoor/indoor enclosure before giving them up.

You can put up a chainlink fence outside around a window in the house (put a top on the chainlink fence). Inside the house, put an enclosure around that window that extends into part of the room. That indoor enclosure should also have a top. The put a little cat door around the window. So that way, the cats can come in and out, but not be mixed with the other pets. And the cat door will keep some of the heat/cold from getting into the house.

Or if you have or can create a spare room, then close off that room. That way the cats can come in and out of that room.

The indoor and outdoor enclosures and/or room can be set up to be cat friendly - scratching posts, carpeted "cat trees" to climb, some pet friendly grasses, etc.. Maybe some nice pando music * piped in.

I've even seen some really fancy indoor enclosures with little fountains and streams. Will see if I can find some examples on youtube when I get home. Can't really get on there at work.

But in the mean time, here are some examples you can ponder.

Here is a house in San Antonio: House with outdoor enclosure. This is probably made for birds and you won't need anything this fancy, but hopefully it will give you an idea of what I'm talking about.

Other ideas here: Safe Outdoor Cats

Some people might think this is crazy, but think about it: Get your cats used to a harness. Take them for walks. Yes, people will look at you like you are crazy, but why not? Most puppies hate a leash at first but once they learn how much fun it is to go for walks, they won't leave you alone. Yes, your cats are already grown, but I've taught many adults dogs who have never been on leash before (including my own) to learn to like the leash.

Something else to consider if the harness idea just doesn't work for you - Musical rooms. Lots of folks do it. Put the other pets in a room or a couple of rooms or crates (I don't know the size of your house), then bring in the outdoor cats and spend time with them. Then put the outdoor cats back out, bring out the other pets and spend time with them. Do this about 3 times a day. Might require you to get up a little earlier because you'll want to do this before work, but it might be worth it. See what other activities you can cut back on to make this work.

Also talk to a behaviorist to see how you can integrate the two cats into the household. It appears that your dogs are already cat friendly. Maybe if you take baby steps - starting with the indoor enclosure, maybe the cats can eventually get along with the rest of the family. Or at least perhaps they can all be out together when you are home to supervise, then separated when you are not at home.

Outdoor enclosures, behaviorists, etc.. - all very expensive, and times are tight for everyone. But look at things you can sell or cut back on. Try to find used chain link fencing, see what you can do yourself. Depending on how determined the kitties are, you might be able to get by with 50 dollars worth of goat fencing and 30 dollars worth of posts to put something together yourself. You can ask the customer service folks at Lowes or Home Depot to help with a plan

Or Google "How to Build a Cat Enclosure to see what you can come up with

Here is one example: How to Build a Cat Enclosure

* Pando Music - Dr Dan Kirby mentioned this product on his radio show. He endorsed it.

Friday, July 23, 2010

Walking a Reactive Dog

$C:\Users\Walker\AppData\Local\Microsoft\Windows\Temporary Internet Files\Content.IE5\ZOV4YN8G\MP900448587[1].jpg$ WALKING A REACTIVE DOG

Note: I am a not a certified trainer or behaviorist. These are only my personal thoughts as a dog lover

This information is based on my personal experience, my personal philosophies, and my partial reading of an excellent book titled Click to Calm: Healing the Aggressive Dog by Karen Pryor. Take from the below info whichever parts work for you

Walking a large, strong reactive dog can be a daunting task. It might be tempting to stop walking the dog; but this will not help the problem and will probably make it worse because now you have a large, bored, destructive dog on your hands.

In this Article

SAFETY
Avoidance
Training

Only positive reinforcement

Check your own behaviors
Free Training Available
Free Dog Walking and Socialization Available

SAFETY

Dogs with known aggression issues must never be walked on a regular buckle or snap collar. The potential is just too great that the dog might slip the collar.
Always use a properly fitted martingale collar or a slip lead (martingale is safer; a slip lead can choke). A Gentle Leader would also be acceptable. Less secure than a martingale but safer than a buckle collar is a harness. Some dogs can slip harnesses. Still have a buckle collar for ID. So the dog should be wearing at least two devices - a buckle collar for ID and a martingale or slip leash, or harness or gentle leader for walking
Absolutely no flexi leads during neighborhood walks. Walkers must use a sturdy 4 to 6 foot lead and keep a good grip on the lead at all times.
Walkers must wear sturdy shoes - no flip-flops.
If the dog is extra aggressive and extra strong, consider a basket muzzle - which allows for airflow, panting, even drinking and taking treats. Still exercise caution. A dog can remove a muzzle if determined enough. The drawback to wearing a muzzle during neighborhood walks is of course if you are confronted by an aggressive stray, your dog won't be able to defend herself.
NO dog parks! At least not until the issues are resolved. Not only is this not fair to others at the park (they become participants in your training issues whether they chose to or not) but it is also a way to set your dog up for failure - too much at once.

Avoidance

This is not the answer and it won't fix the problem, but this is better than not walking the dog, and it is a place to start while you are working on your dog's issues:

Avoid Other Dogs as much as possible. Walk late at night and early in the morning. Walk in the rain. Keep an eye out for other dogs and go in another direction when you see one coming

Training

No negative reinforcement. No punishing

Never yell, poke or hit the dog when he/she is reacting. (not with hands, not with newspaper, not with the leash) This will just make matters worse. The dog will associate bad things happening to her when she sees another dog, and it will just make her dislike other dogs even more. Please note that it doesn't matter whether or not popping your dog with a leash hurts or not. The act is still negative.

Only positive reinforcement

Reward the dog when he is being good. If you have someone willing to help you with this: (Use a basket muzzle if safety is a big issue)

Have a friend stand still with a calm, not reactive dog in a sit. Stand back as far away as your reactive dog needs to be before barking. When your reactive dog isn't barking or lunging or growling, click, treat. If your dog acts up, Do nothing; just stand there until she calms down.

Note that this is not a quick fix. This could take weeks. Once your dog is comfortable at, say 300 feet. Then try moving in an arc just a little closer. Try to stop before your dog reacts. Tell your dog to sit, praise, click, treat.

Keep working on this day after day, week after week, until you can get closer and closer.

If you don't have a friend with a calm dog, you will just have to practice this technique during your neighborhood walks.

When you see a dog approaching, get your dog's attention before he starts reacting. Talk weird baby talk, make weird sounds. I personally like to blow lightly on a party horn. Put your dog in a sit, have your dog "watch me,", etc.. When your dog is not reacting, click, treat, praise highly. Continue getting his attention until the offending dog is gone.

Check your own behaviors

Do you get overly anxious when another dog approaches? Do you hold the leash tighter? If so, your dog will notice this and react accordingly. I've found that using the basket muzzle allows me to relax a little more. Not hold my dog too tightly.

Free Training Available

SA Big Dawgs has weekly free training sessions. You can start out far from the rest of the group and work your way up. You can also talk with the trainer about your issues

Free Dog Walking and Socialization Available

SA Big Dawgs has free dog walking and socialization meetups all over town, most days of the weeks. You can start out far from the group and work your way up.

Also see,

La Trenda's Progression of Reactions to a loose dog

Dog Walking Devices

And see Item 3 at Animal Education Links for more animal info

Thursday, July 22, 2010

Taming Vet Bills

Taming Vet Bills

Times are tough. Many people are unemployed or under-employed. With so many other things tugging at our pocketbooks we need to be sure that our fuzzy kids aren't left out when it comes to proper vet care.

Contents

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Establish a relationship with your vet
Get small health issues taken care of right away
Get your pet spayed or neutered
Get Pet Insurance
Establish a savings account for your dog
Establish credit
When that big expense happens

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

It's an old cliche' but so very relevant in so many situations. If you don't get a 30 dollar oil change every few months, you can wind up spending thousands to repair your engine. If you don't get the proper preventative care for your pets, you could wind up spending thousands at the veterinary hospital.

Get your pets vaccinated. Parvovirus and distemper are awful diseases that affect many unvaccinated pets - especially puppies. Pet parents who have experienced these diseases can tell you that their dogs suffer greatly. Sometimes a pet parent can spend thousands of dollars at the vet and the dog still dies. Those that survive can have life long complications - especially from distemper.

Vaccinations against Rabies, Parvovirus, and Distemper are only needed every one to three years (depending on the vaccine). Luckily, these are not surprise or emergency vaccinations - pet parents can save money specifically for these things. Rabies vaccinations are required by law. Rabies disease is transmittable and potentially fatal to humans and most mammals (dogs, cats, raccoons, etc).
Puppies and kittens must get a series of shots, starting at 6 weeks of age and every 3-4 weeks thereafter until their last vaccine is given after they are 16 weeks old. Talk to your vet about the schedule and please please don't let your pet on the ground or on the floor in public until he/she is done with shots. Please don't let him/her in the dog park, Petco, Petsmart, etc.. They can pick up diseases easily before they are done with shots.
note: For the more experienced pet parents - I know there are some schools of thought about how often or even if vaccs are needed. I'm not smart enough to debate anyone on this subject. But I will say with some confidence though that if you choose not to vaccinate your pet for health reasons then titer testing is a must to make sure your pet still has antibodies. But this is a discussion for another time. This post is about saving money. Titer testing costs several hundred dollars. Vaccinations are quite cheap in comparison.

Keep your pets on heartworm preventative each and every month. Heartworm is an awful preventable disease that is often fatal if not treated. Worms grow in the heart and cause all kinds of complications- heart disease and enlargement and- eventually death. Many dogs feel like they are choking as the worms fill up the heart. Treatment for heartworms consists of basically poisoning the worms. Then the worms have to be absorbed in the dogs circulation. Some dogs don't even survive the treatment. Also the treatment is very expensive. Expect to spend 600 dollars or more for treatment depending on the size of your dog. Heartworm preventative will cost less then ten dollars a month depending on the size of your dog. That's less than 30 cents day. Once again - not a surprise expense - something a pet parent can prepare for.

Dogs that are mostly inside still need preventative. All it takes is one mosquito bite for your dog to become infected.
Also note: If you have never used heartworm preventative, get with your vet first. An inexpensive test needs to be done to insure your dog doesn't already have heartworms; and certain breeds (collie type breeds) might have medical issues with certain brands of heartworm preventatives.
Also be aware that heartworm medication is a prescription and generally requires one in order to obtain it.

Keep Fifi's or Fido's weight in check. Obese dogs have the same complications as obese humans - heart and joint disease, diabetes, hypothyroidism, etc.. Keeping weight at an acceptable level will save on vet bills. Feed your dog a nutritious dog food (talk to your vet) and cut back on table scraps and dog biscuits. Some human foods are okay for an occasional low calorie treat - carrots, apples, etc.. Once again talk to your vet and see a previous post about foods that are bad for our pets: http://www.meetup.com/sabigdawgs/messages/boards/thread/8403478

Note: I'm not smart enough to talk about a raw diet. If you decide to do this, do your research and talk to your vet

Keep your fence in good repair. Replacing a board might cost 5 dollars. Much cheaper than the 600 to 1,500 dollar vet bill you will incur if your dog gets hit by a car. Fence only 4 feet high and your dog keeps jumping it? If you can't afford a 6 foot fence right now, keep Fido inside until you can save up the money. Sometimes no matter what you do, your dog will get out of the yard. Some of them are just that good. These dogs should only be allowed outside when they can be attended to. These dogs are not only in danger of causing you a huge vet expense but they could loose their lives, get lost or stolen. More info on escape artists can be found here: http://docs.google.com/View?id=ddtbr7bw_783f77z5sc3. Additionally, even if your dog is not an escape artist, never take him/her out in public without a secure collar or harness and leash. Not only is this the law in most areas, but more importantly, any dog can get distracted and take off. A dog running after a rabbit might not notice the speeding car coming in her/his direction.

Caution - tethering, tieing out, chaining your dog is never a good way to restrain your dog for oh so many reasons. Please do not leave a tethered dog unattended. More on tethering can be found here: http://www.dogsdeservebetter.com/chaiingaustin.html; http://www.dogsdeservebetter.com/mythguarddogs.html

Please don't let your dog ride in the back of a pickup truck. All it takes is that one time for your dog to jump out while you are speeding down the highway - huge vet bill or worse- dead. Not only could your dog get injured or killed but you might even cause a traffic accident. Some folks might say that their dog has never jumped from the back of a moving truck, but my response is another old cliche' - "there is a first time for everything". One example (of many I hear): A lady who was needing help finding a lost dog was telling me that her dog always walked down the street to go visit the neighbor's dog and "he always comes back". A short time later, I received another call from a good Samaritan. The dog was found dead. So the baby always came back - except for that one time that he was run over by a car. You dog might always ride well in the back of a truck - except for that one time he sees a deer or smells a female dog in heat. Restraining our dog in the back of the truck is a bad idea as well. The dog can try to jump out and hang him/herself. Pet parents should also be extra careful about letting their dogs stick their whole head or parts of their body out of the car window. They could jump out or get hit by flying debris.

Establish a relationship with your vet

Find a vet you like and go to him/her for all of your vet care needs. If your dog gets injured or sick, your regular vet might be more willing to work with you on a payment plan. Shot clinics may be a great way to save money (however, often they are no less expensive then the regular vet and many times do not provide a complete physical examination); but a yearly check up at your vet is a must - not only for preventative care but to also establish that relationship. Also, if a vet sees your dog regularly, he or she will be more attuned to your dog's needs and will be able to see health changes more easily. I get my dogs nails trimmed and anal glands expressed at the vet about once a month. Sometimes I go to my vet for nothing. We just sit in the lobby and I give him treats. This helps me for two reasons - a. 3 of my dogs are very shy and nervous. I want them to get accustomed to the vet's office and I want them to know that going to vet office doesn't always mean something bad. b. And of course, it establishes that relationship. The staff there knows me and my dogs.

Get small health issues taken care of right away

So you see a tiny little bald spot on your dog. You don't want to spend 30 or 50 dollars or so for a vet visit for something so small? Well think about what it will cost when the spot gets bigger and it's harder to treat. What if that little spot turns out to be sarcoptic mange - which is transmittable to humans. Take care of small problems before they become big problems. Not only is it much cheaper in the long run, but your baby will avoid needless suffering.

Get your pet spayed or neutered

This is a good idea for so many reasons - pet over population, health issues, etc.. A neutered dog might be less likely to want to roam. A 200 dollar spay surgery is much cheaper than taking care of 15 puppies - or worse. Some Mamas have complications during birth just like humans and require c-sections or worse- can die. The vet bill can be very expensive and your dog will needlessly suffer. There are many low cost or even free spay neuter clinics in San Antonio. Two Hundred Dollars is probably about what you'd pay at a regular vet. Lost cost (and sometimes free) spay/neuter resources are also available: http://fuzzychildren.blogspot.com/2010/03/low-cost-spay-neuter-vaccinations-in.html

Get Pet Insurance

Shop around and read the fine print. Some deals are better than others. Some are not deals at all. Ask your vet for advice. It will be easier to come up with 10 to 20 dollars per month for insurance rather than come up with 600 dollars for an MRI or X ray if something goes wrong. We have medical insurance for humans - why not for our companions? keep in mind all insurance polices require upfront payment and then will reimburse you.

Establish a savings account for your dog

Even if you only have a couple of dollars to spare, put it away for Rex. If you don't have 2 or 3 dollars a month to put away, then start looking at what you can do without to come up with some spare change (but more is better). Eat out less, give up foods that aren't good for you. If you smoke or drink alcohol - give that up. Give up that cable or satellite TV. Instead of going out to the movies or to a night club, socialize with people and other dogs at free dog walking meetups.

So times are tight and you've done all that already and there is still no money? Look a little harder. Nutritionally, a meal of beans and brown rice has about as much protein as streak. And it provides plenty of vitamins, minerals and fiber. You can get about 10 or more servings out of a 50 cent pack of dried lentils. Gave up meat, candy and pastries already? Can you eat a little less food? Many of us eat way more than we need. Can you cut back on a snack a day for the health of your dog?

Establish credit

Just so you will have it for emergencies. Don't use it to buy new clothes or a game station. If you haven't established credit yet or if you are trying to repair bad credit; then you might have to start with cash secured cards or department store cards. Buy some necessities with them (groceries, school clothes, etc..) to get your credit going - but be sure to pay them off right away. Don't even wait until the end of the month. Have the money to pay the bill before you use the card. For vet expenses, also look into Care Credit: http://www.carecredit.com/vetmed/

When that big expense happens

So, you've kept your dog safe in your yard or on leash; you've kept her or his weight to an acceptable level and fed her/him quality dog food. But a big vet bill still comes in and you are low on cash - what do you do? Pay day loans are always a bad idea. But if you don't have credit established, then you might have to consider that. Pawn something - Jewelery, furniture, electronics, etc.. Anything that is worth less than your dog's life or health. Which is everything. If you spend time calling around to see which vet is the cheapest, the dog could be getting worse and the expense could be going up - not to mention your dog might be suffering.

So you've sold everything, you are hungry from lack of eating and you still can't afford the vet bill?

Charitable organizations are over taxed but give them a try -

http://daisycares.com/

http://www.aahahelpingpets.org/

http://www.hcaltx.com/

http://www.uan.org/index.cfm?navid=162
http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/what_you_can_do_if_you_are_having_trouble_affording_veterinary_care.html

http://www.petpalsoftexas.org/

Our dogs do so much for us and ask for so little in return. We should try our best to make sure they are safe, happy, and well. For more info on vet expenses, and for information on free or low cost spay/neuter vaccinations, please see:

http://fuzzychildren.blogspot.com/2009/08/if-you-cant-afford-vet-care.html.

For information on cutting back on expenses - The Tightwad Gazette is an excellent resource - don't buy it. Get it at the Library:

http://sapl.sat.lib.tx.us/search~S1?/Ytightward+gazette&searchscope=1&SORT=D/Ytightward+gazette&searchscope=1&SORT=D&SUBKEY=tightward%20gazette/1%2C89%2C89%2CB/frameset&FF=Ytightward+gazette&searchscope=1&SORT=D&1%2C1%2C

Other useful info on saving money

http://clarkhoward.com/

http://www.daveramsey.com/

La Trenda

210-649-0391

rescue.connections@yahoo.com

http://facebook.com/aapawfans

<[IMG]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv229/latrenda12/LupeMatt-MattJulieShareaMoment01-24.jpg[/IMG]

Pets and New Babies

Please note: I am not a professional:

The main thing for any parent - even ones who have well adjusted dogs - is supervision, supervision and more supervision. Children and babies make weird noies, they move about in weird ways and make quick jerky movements - this can be disconcerting to dogs especially a dog who is already skittish. And parents should be aware of this.

I can understand the Mom not wanting to go to 6 weeks of training to learn sit, stay, heel, etc. But with children and pets, there is no easy, quick fix. Especially for a skittish dog who might have missed out on human contact during his/her formative weeks/months or worse - has been abused.

Luckily the Mom has plenty of time though - during the pregnancy and while her baby is an infant she can start workinng on some socialization with her dog.

Dogs and humans get so much more out of training classes than sit, stay, come. They are around strange humans and other dogs in a relaxed and fun environment. Getting a dog focused on commands is a great way to calm his/her frazzled nerves. Excerise and mental stimulation are so important for a dog's well-being. Especially a scared dog. "A tired dog is a happy dog"

Also training is important so that the dog learns not to jump up on baby or a toddler. So training reduces the chances of injury.

SA Big Dawgs offer free training classes every weekend so she can go when it suites her schedule and she is not obligated to a 6 week time block. The classes are on-going. If the dog is a little skittish around other people or dogs, she can start off in the back and slowly work her way up.

Mom can ask the trainer about getting her dog used to the baby. I'm sure he will have good advice.

SA Big Dawgs also has free dog walking and socialization meetups all over town at different times of they day - weekdays and weekends. Just walking with strangers will be good for the dog. In the evenings and weekends children are usually at some of the walks which will provide some child time for the dog. Just exercise extreme caution if she doesn' know how her dog will react around kids.

I am a big proponet of rewarding good behavior and ignoring bad behavior such as the techniques taught in Click to Calm. Taking tiny baby steps. The Click to Calm book doesn't really address children, but the technique could be extrapolated:

To prepare the dog for a baby:

Play a recorded baby sounds for a few seconds; click, treat. If the dog doesn't look stressed, play the sound a little longer
Borrow baby blankets, baby clothes from friends, let your dog smell; click, treat
Get your dog used to child-type movements. Wave your hand briefly; click, treat. If the dog doesn't appear stressed, wave hands more, click treat.
When dog gets better with weird hand movements, start making other child-type movments like running in a weird way. Always stop if dog seems uncomfortable - remember baby steps
Bring baby things into the house and make noises with them bottle, rattles, etc..
Use baby scents - powders, oils, etc..
It might seem a bit extreme but get a life-like baby doll - once that makes sounds and wiggles. Very slowly, get the dog use to it. Treat it like a real baby.
If your dog has any sensitve body areas (like feet, tail, ears), start working on desensitization very slowly. Toddlers are going to be touching the dog everywhere (so remember supervision)

My own personal example of how training a dog can help her disposition. My Matt-Matt is very nervous. Lately he has decided that he is afraid to walk at night. I took him out one night (against his wishes) and we sat a park in the dark and did some tricks - sit, sit pretty, lady down. After a couple of minutes, he calmed down and walked normally - instead of pulling like crazy to get back into the house. We have done the same thing at the vet's office.

More information

Living with a shy dog

Animal Education Links - Go to item 2 - Resources. It has children's books. Can be used when the child is older but also can be used for the parent to teach the child about how to safefly live with pets - i.e. don't bother a dog when he's eating, etc..

You Tube - Pet Care For Kids - two of the videos are about pet care - made for kids. One of the video is just for fun - If I were a cat

Humane Society info on Introducing Pets and New Babies - excellent info - including Spay and Neuter. A spayed or neutered pet is likely to have fewer temperamental issues

Also, simply Google "new baby and pets" or "introducing pet to baby," etc.. Also go to the Library and ask the Librarian for info on introducing pet to new baby.

Note about relying on experts. Just my opinion. If somone gives advice that includes negative reinforcement or punishment or pain or fear, then I'd ignore that advice - no matter how much expertise that professional has.

i.e. never hit, yell, stare. Try not to use electric collars, electric fences

For anyone who says they want to give up their dog because they are pregnant or have a baby, show them these videos

Youtube - Baby and Boxer

Yahoo Video - Baby and Sheltie Playing a Game

There are many more - just Google babies and dogs or something like that.

One other thing I forgot to mention that is important when bringing in a baby - The dog will need to learn how not to jump up when excited and other proper mannners for help keep baby safe from injury.

Great Advice from a vet:

my favorite trick is to always reward the dog when you have the baby out- so the dog associates the baby with being petted, food, handling etc. I sometines will recommend ignoring the dog when the baby is sleeping so the dog begins to associate very fond things with the baby. I am not saying not to touch/pet/feed the dog when the baby is asleep- but reward the dog when the baby is present- the positive reinforment helps build the bond...

just an extra thought

Monday, July 19, 2010

Shy Dogs - Recognizing Shy Dog Behavior

Shy Dogs

You've probably seen them - the ones who duck or back away when you try to pet them

Many people assume these fearful dogs were probably physically abused by someone in the past. This might be true but many times, the only abuse is neglect. Dogs that miss out on human socialization during critical periods in the their life can grow up to be shy. [img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv229/latrenda12/Rodney/RodneyatBotanicalGardens08-01-2009C.jpg[/img]One or two trainers have told me that the critical period is between 6 and 20 weeks. Sadly, there are a lot of dogs who go years without any positive human contact. Some of them have survived on the streets or in the country on their own for a while and sadly some of them had a "home" where the "parents" simply left them outside all day..maybe throwing out some food and water occasionally.

These dogs can grow to like humans and enjoy their company. It just takes a little patience and time. Humans have to learn how to "speak dog" to help these babies come out of their shells. They are well worth the wait.

If you are like me, you love doggies so much that you want to pet and hug and squeeze and kiss just about all of them. It's especially tempting to try to "comfort" a fearful dog. Shy dogs like affection but you have to take it slow and only do it when they are ready

Imagine if you were in a strange land where all the beings were 4 times taller than you and they spoke strangely and moved strangely. Now imagine if one of them tried to make you feel better by walking over to you and giving you a big hug while you were backed in a corner. You might just feel worse. You'd probably want to spend some time understanding their customs and their language first. You might want to make sure they are not a threat before you let them touch you.

How do you know a dog is shy? Look at their body language. Their eyes are darting back and forth - probably because they want to check to make sure there is a safe place to retreat to. Their tails are tucked - sometimes plastered to their belly. They might stick out their tongues a lot. They might crouch, duck, try to run or at least back away when approached.

Caution: A fearful dog is just as likely to bite as an aggressive dog. Make sure that the dog feels like he has an escape route. Cornered dogs, are highly likely to bite. A dog on a leash who can't get away might also bite.

How to "talk" to shy dogs

In dog language, a direct stare can mean confrontation. When dealing with a shy dog, use your peripheral vision or look over their heads. Don't face them directly but have your side facing their side. Note: with some extremely shy dogs, I have walked backwards or crawled backwards to approach them but I don't recommend this with an unknown dog. A fearful dog could nip you on the butt or heels when your back is turned.

Don't approach a shy dog directly (normally you don't approach; let them come to you). Walk in an arc and make sure your movements are fluid and smooth. Not jerky or quick. Crouch and move slowly but not too slow. It can make a scared dog suspicious.

Make yourself appear smaller and less threatening by crouching or squatting or getting on your knees. Note: dogs really appreciate when you get down on their level. But (just personal experience) it seems to me that they prefer the human to crouch or sit rather than lay down flat. But you are less threatening laying down than standing up.

Offer a cupped hand or open palm or forearm only after the dog seems a little curious about you or is approaching you. When trying to pet the dog, make sure your fingers are cupped - not spread out towards the dog. According to one researcher, fingers pointing directly at a dog can look like bared teeth.

Never try to pet a shy dog on top of the head. Start low, scratch their chest, maybe under their chin. If they seem to enjoy it, you can try moving slowly up to their shoulder. If you really want to pet them on the head, you can move from the shoulder to the back and then to the ears then pet their head from the back (only if they are comfortable). Going over their head from the front can scare them.

You might notice that many shy dogs are more fearful of men and children. Could it because a man or child abused them in the past? Could be but.. men are bigger; their voices are louder. So they can be scarier. Children move in weird ways, they wave their hands all about, they make strange high pitched noises and they run directly towards dog. Of course children should always be highly supervised around pets. This is especially important with shy dogs. Most dog bites happen to children and many of those bites are on the face. Children must be taught when a scared dog has "had enough"

So, why is it that a well-adjusted dog doesn't mind when you stare at him or pet him on the head or go to pet her with your fingers out?
This is La Trenda's philosophy (haven't read this anywhere)
Well-adjusted dogs are "bilingual" - speaking human and dog. You'll see a dog greet another dog with eyes averted (dog language) but that dog won't mind when you stare at him (human language). So dogs who received human socialization when they were younger understand that a direct stare is okay in human language.
Dog who like cats are also "bilingual" or "trilingual". In cat language a tail that points straight up means the cat is in a good mood. In dog language, a tail putting straight up could mean confrontation is about to happen. But a dog who "speaks cat" doesn't mind when kitty walks around with her tail sticking straight up:

For more info on speaking dog, Check out "How to Speak Dog" by Stanley Coren.
Also see: http://fuzzychildren.blogspot.com/2009/06/shy-or-unsocialized-dogs-approaching.html
http://fuzzychildren.blogspot.com/2009/11/precautions-when-living-with-shy-dogs.html

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Lost and Found Be careful when turning over a found dog

Lost and Found - Be careful when turning over a found dog

If you are Good Samaritan who picks up strays in San Antonio, you probably know by now how hard it is to find a place for the fur kid. San Antonio has one of the worst stray problems in the country. Even though there are several shelters and rescues in the city, they are always full.

Kind hearted people have to take precautions when placing found dogs. Of course the first thing you need to do is try to find the original parents - flyers, newspaper ads, internet ads, etc...http://www.meetup.com/sabigdawgs/messages/boards/thread/9347136/10#36523778

Precautions apply to any found dog, but good Samaritans who find small dogs, purebred dogs and certain bully or power breeds or breeds with reputations have to be extra cautious. Puppies are also quite popular but good Samaritans should be aware that a lot of people will dump puppies once the cuteness wares off

[list]

[*]Big market for lap or purse sized dogs. People will sell the dogs to the first person who comes along or to the person with the most money - not making sure the dog gets into the best home. Since the seller or broker is only concerned with making money, the conditions in which the dog is kept while waiting for a buyer could be atrocious. Vet care, proper nutrition is non-existent because that costs money.

[*] Purebred dogs can also be a money maker for unscrupulous people

[*] Unscrupulous people are happy to take Pit Bulls, Rottweiler, Chows, etc... for fighting, "junk yard dogs," guard dogs, money makers, etc...

[*] Note that any size or breed dog can wind up in the wrong hands - unstable people (hoarders, animal abusers, killers, bait dogs) research labs, etc...

[/list]

Sometimes no matter how well you try to make sure a dog winds up in the right place, bad things can happen. But there are some precautions that good Samaritans can take

[list]

[*] If someone claims to be the owner of a dog you found, ask for vet records, family photos, copies of lost/found flyers, ads, etc. If none can be produced, then ask questions to try to figure out if the person is telling the truth or lying. Ask the same question in different ways and check for consistency. If on the phone, ask caller for distinguishing physical characteristics (something you left out of the flyers). If face to face ask how they acquired the dog, personality traits, etc... You can ask when their dog went missing. If they say May 18th, but you've had the dog since April, then you will know something is up

[*] If you post the dog on the internet - like craigslist, etc... be extra cautious of anyone who contacts you claiming to be a rescue. Rescues are always over flowing. True rescues/shelters turn down turn-in requests every day. It is highly unlikely that a rescue would contact someone offering to take a dog. It is more likely that the person calling is looking to make a quick buck off the dog you have found. Or worse.

[*] If you are able to find a rescue or shelter to take the dog, be sure to check out the place if possible. See what conditions the pets are kept in. If the rescue is a foster network, they won't have a location to check out. But still ask lots of questions about how the dogs are housed, what are their adoption procedures. Ask to see their adoption application, adoption contract. Ask which vet they use for their rescues (very important). Ask about their 501 C 3 status. There are some good rescuers who might not have that status yet, but they should at least know what it is. If they claim to be a 501 C 3 check them out at guidestar.org or charitynavigator.org. Ask how their pets are advertised. The rescue should know about Petfinder.

[*] If you are going to try to find a home for the animal yourself - which is likely because shelters are always full - do criminal background checks, home visits, check with apartment managers, rental property owners to see if pets are allowed and if there are any breed or size restrictions. Check vet records of any present or past pets. Ask lots of questions about how the dog will be living, who will be caring for the dog, etc..

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More info for rescuers here: http://docs.google.com/View?id=ddtbr7bw_762fvbhqjdk

http://charitynavigator.org/

http://www2.guidestar.org/

Lost and Found Be careful when turning over a found dog

Lost and Found - Be careful when turning over a found dog

[list]

[*] Purebred dogs can also be a money maker for unscrupulous people

[*] Unscrupulous people are happy to take Pit Bulls, Rottweiler, Chows, etc... for fighting, "junk yard dogs," guard dogs, money makers, etc...

[*] Note that any size or breed dog can wind up in the wrong hands - unstable people (hoarders, animal abusers, killers, bait dogs) research labs, etc...

[/list]

Sometimes no matter how well you try to make sure a dog winds up in the right place, bad things can happen. But there are some precautions that good Samaritans can take

[list]

[/list]

More info for rescuers here: http://docs.google.com/View?id=ddtbr7bw_762fvbhqjdk

http://charitynavigator.org/

http://www2.guidestar.org/

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Lost and Found - Scam Artists and Opportunists

People who lose their precious fur kids are often distraught; and understandably, will do anything to get their babies back.

Scam artists and opportunists know this and will use this to their advantage. Sadly there are also pranksters.

For this article, this is how I'm defining the three:

Scam artists - those who lie, cheat, break the law to make money

Opportunists - those who may or may not provide a legitimate service but who use shady tactics to make money

Pranksters - those who aren't out to make money. But enjoy a laugh at other's people's pain

A typical scam artist ploy:

I was in the area for a conference. On my way home, I saw your dog. I took him with me. I’d be happy to get him back to you; I just need xxx dollars to ship him to you.

A typical opportunistic ploy

I’m sorry you lost your dog; I just want to let you know about this great service that helped me find my dog…etc...

Note this email is sent like it’s from one person to another. But why would one stranger send another stranger this email when there are so many lost dog postings all over the place.

A typical prankster ploy
Someone calls and says that they have your dog. They give you an address. You tried to find that address and it doesn’t exist. When you try to call back, the prankster will not answer the phone or will answer the phone and claim that the dog ran away.

Also please be aware that scam artists will also try to take advantage of people who have found a dog. They will claim that they want to buy the dog from you at a price that is too good to be true - without even meeting the dog.

The above are just some typical ploys. Be aware that other ploys exist:

Never send money or hand over money to anyone unless they are standing right in front of you holding your dog.

Don’t deal with people from out of town/state/country; don’t cash checks that are sent to you

Note that there are some legitimate pet searching companies (who may or may not be shady). If you decide to use one, try to find someone you know who has used them – don’t rely on an email from a stranger.

Ask them to provide the exact details of what they will do for you. Consider if this is something that you can do yourself (or with the help of friends) for free or for cheaper. Be sure to get an exact price quote in writing. Be wary of those sites that make you enter a bunch of personal information before giving you a price quote.

Additionally, if are trying to find a place for a found dog, be sure to thoroughly check out the person who is taking the dog from you. More in this in another post.

Sadly, it’s been my experience that many scam artists and opportunists hang out on Petfinder. It is a useful site. Be sure to use for lost and found, but also be very wary of anyone who contacts you from there.

A good article on petfinder concerning scam artists

Includes actual scam artist letters: http://www.petfinder.com/classifieds/scam.html

http://www.petfinder.com/classifieds/scam_examples.html